The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

F. Running Gear
F.1. Steering Head, Forks and Shocks -
L #134 I have a 1960 Venom road test that states the top speed is 95mph with 65mph lights. But
with the sidecar on this makes very little difference to us. Can anyone explain why the forks can be
removed with ease but are quite illegitimate to put back to obtain the correct pressure on the shrouds
to prevent them rattling. Or has anyone learnt the secret.
#136 There is probably some approved method to stop rattles. The hairy method a few of us use is to
run the bike, down a very quiet road with a few bumps but not too many, with the lower pinch bolts out.
Don't brake heavily, it could be interesting. Stop from time to time to see if that's done the trick, and
when it has, put the pinch bolts back. This is slightly suicidal and I refuse any legal liability, but it
generally works when bouncing up and down has failed
#138 By the way have you remembered to offset the forks springs to the nearside and include the
rubber washers between the shrouds and springs?.
#144 I start by putting the bottom yoke in the vice. I clean any paint off the inside of the inside of the
fork yoke and grease it. I then put a wedge in the slots of the lower fork yoke, and check the top spring
claw, F262, will fit easily. I leave the wedge during assembly. My tools include my version of LET 796,
and another device which I can't identify on the shelf, for holding the damper while screwing the bottom
nut.
L #229 This is a pretty specific request for info; does anyone know if there is a replacement
taper-roller steering head bearing for KTT's mk 1 and 8? I just pulled the forks from my mk 8 and the
cups are, understandably at 64 years, a little dimpled. As I'm also ready to put my mk 1 back together,
I thought it a good idea to change this out as well. Anyone have any experience here?
#230 There was an article in UK Fishtail 298 on using taper rollers in a MKII KSS that maybe of use
#232 May I suggest taking the original bearing races to your local bearing supplier. Try Yellow pages. If
you get the ID right and the OD can be cylindrically ground to fit. Might be worth a shot
L #278 I am ashamed to ask to the member, it’ a non-Velo thing. But I am interesting to know
what kind of none original Tele fork fit on the Velo swing arm frame? and how do they fit ? How
handling effected? I am thinking the machine for novice racing purpose as well as road ( 250cc). I
would prefer pre-63 folk and English one. ( timing cover said "MADE IN ENGLAND" is it?),no
alternation to the frame ( in case I will replace it back later) and more widely available than Velo fork
with rebound damping. once I heard that Roadholder would fit, but I realized there were several type of
Roadholders. I gave it up because not knowing what I was looking for.
#279 You could try a set of Metal Profile forks. These were British, available for many years without any
major changes and were commonly used as an aftermarket upgrade by racers of the period. You might
find some by scouring the autojumbles or spares advertisements.
L #294 I've two sets of suspension units, both incomplete, both slightly different. The most
salvageable have annular spring supports fixed(?) to the damper unit: the other set has an indent
approx halfway up the damper, presumably for collets. Anybody recognize this description? If so
please where can identification/spares be obtained?
#296 Woodhead Monroes measure 6.5 cm OD and have an annular ring at the bottom.
L #300 Does any one know what pressure I should pump the air forks up to on my '48 MAC I
245