The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
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L # 5492 I am starting a Venom/Viper based project and have a 1960 frame (with the down tube<br />
welded to the bottom cross member). What interests me is just how accurately aligned or straight<br />
should I expect this frame to be. What has prompted this query is that I have been offering up a pair of<br />
rear set footrest plates that have a 5.875" fixing hole spacing to match the nominal distance between<br />
the centres of the swinging arm trunnion and the bottom centre stand mounting lugs. Having<br />
deliberately not incorporated significant clearance for adjustment, the offside (right) plate fitted neatly<br />
but the nearside (left) one did not line up. Measuring the actual distances between centres on the frame<br />
showed 5.9" (right)and 6.0" (left). As a result I have attempted some basic alignment checks, with the<br />
frame upside down using an machinists spirit level and plumb lines, that show for example that the<br />
bottom rails when set level across adjacent to centrestand lugs are up to 1/16" out crossways adjacent<br />
to the front down tube lug. <strong>The</strong>re is no sign of accident damage on the frame so I am coming to the<br />
view is this level of innaccuracy is probably typical i.e. within tolerance. Is this view correct? Your<br />
thoughts and advice on this and how best to carry out checks would be appreciated.<br />
# 5493 I suspect that frame building was not always as accurate as we might imagine. <strong>The</strong> front<br />
engine plates on Mk VIII KTTs are drilled to suite each frame; they cannot be swapped over as the<br />
bolts will not pass through. <strong>The</strong>se frames are more of a blacksmith's job than might be expected.<br />
# 5516 I'm sure you are right. Perhaps as long as the swinging arm trunnion bearing is perpendicular<br />
to the headstock bearing, what happens in between, as long as it looks in line, is of no great concern.<br />
L # 5536 can anyone send me info on the toolbox/rear stay fitting. I have a 1936 MAC with a<br />
repro rear stay FK58/25AS supplied with no fixing studs for the mudguard or chainguard. <strong>The</strong> problem<br />
is: I don`t have a toolbox (yet), I`ve established the position and made/welded on studs for the<br />
mudguard, chainguard. <strong>The</strong> parts book shows a fourth stud on the toolbox side. Question any info on<br />
location of this stud, is it for the toolbox, how long, what thread.<br />
# 5545 All studs would originally have been 26 TPI, but question as to if you do in fact have the correct<br />
repro. vertical stay. ? If you did , the toolbox mounting would be obvious , as the right hand side stay is<br />
flattened, & 'kinked' forwards to give a vertical, forward facing flat area with 2 holes drilled in it, to which<br />
the rear face of the toolbox mounts with two 1/4 inch bolts. ( I would venture to suggest that the stay is<br />
incorrect ?) Toolbox mounts to the front underside seat stay tube with clamp. Also you mention welding<br />
studs to the stay , - an original type stay would have all studs already welded into place, - 2 to take the<br />
mudguard mounting strap, ( correct position & length is critical), & one for the rear chainguard mount. I<br />
have one repro 'D' type toolbox left in stock, ( complete with all fittings),& have no plans to make any<br />
more.<br />
# 5548 <strong>The</strong> stay you refer to is the later type FK58/42AS which me previous MAC had. <strong>The</strong> bike I have<br />
now is earlier according to the parts manual both descriptively and graphically does not have a<br />
flattened section to accommodate the toolbox.<br />
L # 5543 When replacing the split beading around the headlamp cowl (viper) I assume it should<br />
be fixed in place with adhesive, if so what adhesive should I use.\<br />
# 5544 No glue; the beading just clips on.<br />
L # 5566 I know that this is a recurring theme - but can anybody recommend from experience, a<br />
high quality electroplater anywhere in the UK that could do a nice job chroming a restored (but not<br />
chromed) Venom Tank? I don't mind where I send it as long as the results are worth it.<br />
#5567 Cleveland Chroming Co., Ltd (Middlesbrough) TEL 01 642 244 911<br />
# 5574 Try Marque Restore, Unit 4 Shilton Industrial Estate Shilton, Coventry Tel 02 476 622 225. I<br />
have just started using them after seeing the resoration work they did on a badly damaged Gold Star<br />
Tank. <strong>The</strong> tank was badly dented by the clip on and now looks better than new. I am restoring a Honda<br />
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