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The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

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#1237 Good point about the shaft seal. I'd not realized the size of the opening. I've intended to use a<br />

reed valve from a airhead BMW. <strong>The</strong> valve is an aluminum disc approx. 25 mm in diameter with a reed<br />

and stopped in the middle. <strong>The</strong> disc will be inserted in a aluminum cylinder turned up from some bar<br />

stock and finished with a couple of barbed nipples for the breather hose. It will cost me about an hour of<br />

time to build it and 7 bucks for the reed valve. <strong>The</strong> whole affair will be about 1 inch in diameter and 1<br />

1/2 inches long. What did you use for your valve? I may be able to beat the size and buy one off the<br />

shelf.<br />

#1248 A few aftermarket companies make one way breathers, especially for Harleys. Try Spyke.com<br />

for one. I've also run, with varying degrees of success, automotive PCV valves, smog (gulp) valves and<br />

power brake booster valves. Bring your girlfriend to the auto parts store and have her find one that<br />

blows a lot of air in one direction with least effort to open and nothing the other way. Sealing the<br />

mainshaft is tougher. Only way I've found is to put the case in the lathe and open the hole out to 1.875<br />

for a .188 wide lip seal. One could easily make a tool to do it in situ. I've heard of lubing the shaft and<br />

squirting silicone seal in there to make a seal of sorts. Might work, might make a mess.<br />

#1249 I have been using a breather intended for a certain American motorcycle for two years now. Its<br />

available from www.dohertymachine.com. I don’t know if it’s worth installing, had quite a lot of work to<br />

get it operating properly. One problem which is not finally solved yet is to plug the mainshaft breather<br />

hole, haven’t found a reliable way to make a plug stick and it seems to work better when that hole is<br />

plugged. Another problem is that there comes quite a lot of oil from the below mag breather outlet and<br />

that must be taken care of somehow so now I have a hose from below the mag to the oil tank and the<br />

breather valve is installed on the oil tank breather outlet. This tends to pressurize the oil tank so my<br />

only engine leak is now from the oil filler cap. I still have problems with oil leaking from the gearbox into<br />

the primary chain cover and eventually out from there in the usual places. Third problem is the sound,<br />

the description oink oink is quite accurate. Have tried several ways of insulating the breather valve but<br />

its still audible if You listen for it. It did cure the problem though of very small oil leaks from several<br />

places on the engine especially after a hard ride but the system still needs further development.<br />

#1255 Surely if a valve of this type is fitted it should be in the breather line from below the mag to the oil<br />

tank? This would prevent tank pressurization due to the positive pressure required to open the valve<br />

and consequently prevent leakage from the tank cap. <strong>The</strong> tank will still act as a separator/catch tank to<br />

catch any oil returned through the engine breather and the tank breather will still work as intended and<br />

vent only dry(ish) gasses.<br />

#1257 I just happened to fit a drive side oil seal, because I use a Watson belt drive and oil always was<br />

pumped into the primary drive up to the point when it exits through the felt ring after 200 miles. Now we<br />

in Europe are strangled finding the correct diameter size seal. And the seal must be of tiny proportions<br />

anyway that it can be fitted. <strong>The</strong> nearest solution was a metric seal with 35 mm inner diameter, and this<br />

is not a proper shaft seal with an inner wire spring, just a lipped seal like for fork stanchions. For fitting<br />

the crankcase has to me machined with a recess, in my case the top hat bush was the victim, and the<br />

boss and recess of the primary sprocket as well to get it down to 35mm. I plugged the breather whole in<br />

the crank and used silkone gasket on the slots in the sprocket facing the flywheel. To lubricate for the<br />

rocking motion when the shock absorber is acting, I filled the inner recess in the sprocket with grease. If<br />

the whole system works I can not say yet.<br />

#1262 Thanks for info. I will try that this summer. I thought there would be a risk that the hose would be<br />

filled with oil after the breather valve.<br />

#1266 A little oil may collect in the pipe but it should be of no consequence. If there were no valve in<br />

the pipe then any oil there would either lie in the lowest point of the pipe or drain back into the<br />

crankcase when the engine is stopped, but if the breather adapter under the magneto is in the right<br />

place then the amount of oil finding its way into the pipe is quite small, the main purpose is after all to<br />

breathe gasses, not liquid. <strong>The</strong>re is of course some liquid content but this is separated out in the tank.<br />

<strong>The</strong> majority of this liquid is carried into the tank while the engine is running, and only a minuscule<br />

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