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The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

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Rebound damping also feels insufficient. Has anybody experience of tuning the velocette double<br />

dampers (compression/rebound damping? What are the spring rate rates in front?<br />

#4139 I had a Velo fork tube in one hand the other day and a damper out of a '70's Moto Guzzi in the<br />

other. With a bit of trimming the Guzzi damper looked like it might fit, though Guzzi dampers are not<br />

known for being all that good. <strong>The</strong>y do make after-market dampers for the Guzzis, so with a bit of<br />

research and effort one could have gas charged, adjustable, modern dampers in a Velo fork. That said,<br />

the stock dd forks with 10w oil work fine for me. I will take note of Ingebrigt's observations next time I<br />

have some apart.<br />

L #4136 Greetings all, I need to replace a worn out set of gaiters on my '66 VMT. Knowing the<br />

upper spring seat must be "twisted" on the stanchion to ensure the spring is clamped in the spring seat,<br />

is there a way to install new gaiters without completely stripping the mudguard, stays etc. from the<br />

bike?<br />

#4138 <strong>The</strong> easiest way to fit gaiters is to remove wheel & guard, drop off the sliders and providing you<br />

have short tubular shrouds fit the gaiters & all the rest. Without short tubes to hold the gaiters you will<br />

have to strip the stanchions off too. Have fun - its really not that bad!<br />

#4141 Surely he must have short tubes if he is replacing the gaiters. If it had the long shroud tubes he<br />

wouldn't be able to fit the gaiters in the first place. Totally agree with you regarding the replacement<br />

method. When refitting the top bush, I found it useful to use the old two piece split clamp headlamp<br />

bracket(beloved of all old café racers) as a slide hammer to knock in the bush. Don' forget the oil seal<br />

before fitting the bush.<br />

L #4145 While we are on the subject of front forks I will ask a question again just in case<br />

someone out there has the answer and missed my question last time around. What is the centre to<br />

centre distance between the front fork tubes? I have measured various top and bottom yokes and they<br />

are all different centres so I am looking to find a set which will make the fork tubes parallel. Hope to get<br />

a distance this time<br />

#4148 You could undo the top stanchion nuts, undo the damper rods ( retain with string for reassembly)<br />

slacken off the bottom fork yoke bolts and draw the stanchions right out downwards... probably have to<br />

undo the brake cable.<br />

#4150 I'm not sure how I'd be able to reassemble and rotate the upper spring holders 15 to 20 degrees<br />

to lock the springs tightly in place. Am I missing something in the reassembly phase? I can not think of<br />

any way to do this task except remove the mud guard and stays, orient the sliders to the side and<br />

reassemble. I'd hoped to save a few steps and avoid the potential damage to the paint work.<br />

#4151 Exactly; you cannot locate the spring carriers with the fork legs complete below!<br />

#4170 Sorry to disappoint you but the distance that you are looking for is a variable; it's one of the<br />

reasons for the front wheel spindle having that shifty little bush which is clamped in the L/H fork slider.<br />

No doubt there is a Charles Udall drawing that shows this dimension but I would be interested to know<br />

what the +/- tolerance is. I have fork yokes that have been bored so far off centre that the forging has<br />

been built up with braze in order to keep the appearance of concentricity - by the original manufacturer!<br />

<strong>The</strong> yokes were bored as a pair and must be kept as such. If your yokes are out of parallel and there is<br />

no evidence of impact damage then it is possible that they are not an original "matched pair". <strong>The</strong><br />

forgings are soft as butter and it doesn't take much to knock them out of alignment. By the same token,<br />

they can be easily re-aligned but you need to find the right bloke to do it.<br />

L #4406 So after spending a year or so rebuilding the venom and riding it around for 700 miles or<br />

so I managed to fall off it a couple of weeks ago. Looking at the bike the damage seems pretty<br />

cosmetic although there are a couple of points I need a little advise on. 1. <strong>The</strong> gear change level got<br />

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