The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
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# 6310 If you own a <strong>Velocette</strong>, or any other motorcycle of venerable age, you have to accept the<br />
undeniable fact that there will be times when your beloved machine, instead of distributing surplus oil to<br />
the 4 winds, will show a smear on the outside somewhere, & unfortunately if you are stationary instead<br />
of riding & enjoying it, -- it will shame you visibly at times unless you are prepared to park on loose dirt,<br />
or carry some sort of collapsible drip tray, or a roll of modern 'magic' house tissue. On the other hand it<br />
is possible to eliminate some of the traveling vent holes, but in the end it will do little more than<br />
concentrate the black mark in one spot. Normal fettling, ( & washing & riding) pretty much ensures that<br />
surplus gearbox oil & water will finish up in the primary chain case as noted, & there isn't much that can<br />
easily be done to prevent a healthy engine from breathing into the same place ! & it all ensures an<br />
overfull case in my experience. Although I have never had cause to consider it, it seems to me that a<br />
simple 'overfull' drain from the chaincase with the associated length of neoprene drain hose ( that many<br />
modern wonders use !) would allow surplus liquid to either be dropped on to terra firma while riding, - or<br />
into the drip tray that I assume we all use to keep our garage floor pristine. This would at least prevent<br />
the build up of liquid to the point where it dribbles from the drive shaft openings, & if you fit a drain plug<br />
to the chaincase as previously mentioned, you can at least ensure that anything in the chaincase is<br />
mostly oil at the correct (?) level !!! On the other hand maybe a couple of tips on curing leaks elsewhere<br />
?? On my Mk. 2 KSS machines, I have adapted the front of the inner chaincase fitting, to take an 'O'<br />
ring that snaps oiltight over the driveside crankcase bearing housing boss, so this eliminates the dribble<br />
of oil at this point. I first did this on my 'Special' where as a result of my bottom frame tube lengthening<br />
operation, ( approx 3/4 inch) the optimum engine/gearbox drive centres increased by about half that<br />
amount, & surprisingly there is enough room around the standard engine drive sprocket, ( assuming no<br />
chain disintegration !), to allow the drive shaft hole to be moved this distance. <strong>The</strong> removal ( &<br />
destruction) of the original tinplate bits, required that a new one was machined from solid stock, & it<br />
became obvious that the original oil containment at this point could be greatly improved by the addition<br />
of an 'O' ring. <strong>The</strong> result, -- no more leaks here ! This mod. should (?) apply to the M series as well.<br />
Another annoying spot is that spacer tube between the 2 cases, -- but this is an easy one ! -- forget<br />
about all the sealants & junk, & simply do a neat cut in a piece of stock radiator hose, to make a rubber<br />
tube that is a little longer than the steel spacer tube, & fits over it. Bear in mind that I have been using<br />
this trick since the days of canvas reinforced natural rubber hose, -- & yes, - I know that the oil will<br />
attack it & soften & swell it all up, -- but this only makes the seal better ! In these days of neoprene, it<br />
will be necessary to make sure that the ends of the tube are accurately cut square, or smoothed square<br />
on the linisher belt, or the judicious use of the grindstone, (not really a good idea !) What ever, -<br />
properly done, this is simple to fit & results in the elimination of another annoying smear of oil. As for<br />
the rest of the leaks, -- you are on your own fellows !!<br />
# 6312 <strong>The</strong>se ideas are very useful and practical but for those with access to the UK VOC spares<br />
scheme they do a very neat alloy spacer with o rings in each end. This gives a good oil seal and still<br />
separates the two chain case halves correctly. I once saw a Velo racer with a "nappy" to catch the oil<br />
drips. Not as bad as it sounds as it was a neatly made sheet metal plate, similar to the military/trails<br />
bash plates seen on other bikes but with an absorbent foam layer to catch/hold any drips! Never tried<br />
myself .I think I would rather be shamed by oil drips than admit to being a forty five year old who still<br />
uses nappies!<br />
L # VOCNA 122 A friend of mine bought a 1936 KSS at the Vegas auction. I went over tonight<br />
and we got it fired up, made sure it had oil pressure to the cam, etc. After it ran for a minute a large<br />
puddle formed under the primary. No problem I said, the primary has filled from sitting, just have to<br />
drain it off. We couldn't find a drain plig anywhere! Did they not have them back then? It has the<br />
normal fill hole with spring clip. You guys ad drain plugs?<br />
# VOCNA 123 Obviously a KSS needs no drain plug, as it all comes out on the ground anyway! I'm not<br />
sure if I still have a KSS primary laying around, but adding a drain and level plug is always a good idea,<br />
as is silcone sealant!<br />
# VOCNA 124 <strong>The</strong> KSS does not come with a drain plug. It is not really worth the effort to fit one<br />
because there is no seal and provision for one around the clutch. Run the bike for a few miles and it will<br />
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