The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

#3137 Last summer I had to replace my rear shock and have been quite happy with a pair of Hagon
Shocks.
#3140 Heard suggestions that Hagon aren't good long-term, but don't know exactly what long-term
means.
#3150 I fitted NJB's last year, because the Girlings failed MOT on damping, but only a few miles and
seem OK.
#3151 Heard our Australian friends reproduce the Konis, under a name which is more or less "Koni"
backwards.
#3152 They sell all the KP they produce under the name "Castlemain"
L #3597 Vibration on my '66 Thruxton has broken the central stay on the front mud guard. The
break is thru the 5/16" bolt hole, where the stay is clamped between the slider and the triangular plate.
My first inclination is to fabricate a steel gusset and weld the damaged stay. I'd suspect I'm not alone in
this malady. Is there a "recommended" repair to reduce the likelihood of this stay promptly breaking
again?
#3601 I've had to make this repair a number of times, and the best repair that I've found is to cut the
stay on both sides of the wheel about 1 1/2" above the broken bolt hole and make up a lower portion
from 1/8" plate about 1 1/4" wide and long enough to reach an inch above the cut off stay, then drill new
mounting holes in the new plate. The vertical centerline of the new mounting plate will then be well
behind the centerline of the original stay, so I notch the new plate to match the cut end of the stay, butt
weld the joint and bevel cut the remaining square corner off of the new lower plate. After painting, the
mod is noticeable to only the discriminating eye and the stay will not break again. I tend to use a lot of
revs when I ride so have had a number of these breakages over the years and have decided that the
cause is due to the requirement that the engine balance is biased to a front to back shaking which
makes a pendulum out of ancillaries such as the fenders (mudguards), oil tanks, etc., leading to bracket
cracking. The centre front stay is weakest at the top bolt hole, so that's where it breaks. If you watch the
rear extension of the rear mudguard (fender) of your Thruxton, you'll see cracks developing near the
rear mounting holes which will soon lead to the back portion of the fender together with rear light and
number plate dropping into the road. I was able to make a repair to mine, using a portion of a larger
section BSA fender of heavier material and slightly larger radius. I trimmed it to fit inside the VMT
fender and welded it in place, bridging the break by about 6" each direction. After careful smoothing of
the welded joints and repainting, people only saw it after I pointed it out and it did not break again.
#3602 That centre stay isn't really a mudguard stay. It helps keep the two fork bottom sliders in the act.
L #3864 Can anyone recommend a suitable material for the damper on Webb Girder forks.
#3865 There are readily available discs for M20 BSA's and the friction discs used on Harley WLA (and
similar models) rocker clutch pedals may be adaptable
#3868 For years I have used friction material tossed out by the clutch service mobs, It appears that in a
lot of cases a ring of material of a suitable size is cut from flat sheet, this leaves a whole lot of scrap
circles up to about 4 inches in diameter. It comes in various thicknesses, but the thinnest, while being
thicker than what was used originally can be adapted to do the job. I even 'Araldite' slabs together to
make up new friction drive cones for one of my ride on mowers . There are several different compounds
used. Try visiting a clutch repair specialist shop, & ask the shop foreman. All my steering & fork
dampers have this material installed.
L #3881 I am the proud owner of an MAC which is close to the same age as me, thanks to a
generous Christmas present from my wife. The MAC was first registered in January 1947, so it must
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