The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
#1217 Basically the intake valve closing event far surpasses any of the other three events. It<br />
determines at what point in the cylinder compression begins. Early intake valve closing creates higher<br />
compression at lower engine speed and increases mid range power. Later closing allows more air in at<br />
high revs and increases top end, provided the rest of your engine is up to it. Intake valve closing comes<br />
in second in importance. Exhaust events are a tradeoff between extra time to push on the piston or<br />
increased scavenging, but again with one two lobe cam the intake closing is the one you want right. So<br />
what is right? On my Venom engines with /8 cam I run the timing as advanced as possible (more than<br />
stock). It can only be advances so far as the intake valve will hit the piston on overlap. Gives great<br />
mid-range with no noticeable loss on top but a bit of pinking at low revs if compression is too high or<br />
timing too advanced. On well breathing motors such as Thruxton I run the cam about standard spec<br />
(get the intake closing at spec and forget the rest). Also and engine that continues to pink at low and<br />
mid range regardless of timing, fuel , etc., can be compensated by retarding the cam. With the Velo's<br />
fine pitched teeth the cam can generally be advanced or retarded one tooth (8 degrees) without<br />
interference but ALWAYS check piston to valve clearance. This can easily be done by screwing in the<br />
rocker adjusters until the valve hits the piston and calculating how many turns from zero lash (one turn<br />
equals .040) . Don't run with less than .060.<br />
L #1400 With the Velo starting technique the valve lifter enables the exhaust valve to be opened<br />
to get the engine turned over its compression stroke ready for the big swing (also good for stopping the<br />
engine and other maintenance tasks). As I remember there is a flat at the end of the lifter that sits just<br />
below the valve lifter thingy (exhaust bottom rocker). When you pull the decompression lever, the flat<br />
rotates to come into contact with the rocker and lifts the valve. On my machine the valve lifter has to<br />
travel a little before it comes into contact with the lifter thingy so I would imagine that it wouldn't take<br />
much wear before it has difficulty in lifting the exhaust rocker. I perhaps wouldn't look too much further<br />
and I'm sure that you've tried adjusting the cable.<br />
#1401 On my 1960 Venom the cable did not lift the cam follower and hence exhaust valve enough; not<br />
sufficient adjustment on the cable. I fitted an adjuster, from a bicycle I think Halfords, and that enabled<br />
me to adjust so that it lifted the valve. <strong>The</strong> adjuster has a slot to pass over the cable so I put a turn of<br />
fine wire round it. Make the adjustment with the timing cover off to see the effect. <strong>The</strong> alternative is to<br />
move the nipple on the cable by using a soldering iron to melt the solder and pull the cable further<br />
through the nipple. Mike<br />
#1405 <strong>The</strong> valve lifter is supposed to just lift the valve off its seat enough to let the compressed air out<br />
of the cylinder and allow you to set up a good swing during the start ritual. If you set it up to lift the valve<br />
too much it could interfere with the valve getting back onto the seat during normal running. That would<br />
make noise before you smelled it.<br />
#1406 <strong>The</strong> valve lifter is also used to stop the engine.<br />
L #2628 First is it normal to be able to hand pull all the timing gears out of the case without any<br />
pullers including the cam gear except of course for the mag gear? Is it possible to do valve timing any<br />
other way than it says in the manual?<br />
#2630 Yes the timing gears (except for the pinion on the crankpin!) are retained only by the steady<br />
plate. And I will repeat the cam timing tip I got from an old Fishtail, thank you "Rastus":<br />
At TDC on the "off" (non-compression) stroke the valves will have equal lift. Worked for Rastus, worked<br />
for me. This seems obvious when you think about it. A /8 may have asymmetrical opening and closing<br />
but the valves still must not hit the piston at TDC. Remember that each tooth on the camgear equals 8<br />
degrees of crankshaft rotation. Cam timing is not an exact science. Ignition timing is!<br />
L #1631 One of my 'foot' of followers have a 1 1/8 inch radius another 1 inch but I suspect<br />
someone grind one in order to copy thruxton? Because there are no mark of intake or exhaust( quite<br />
looks professionally done) but surely someone used before ( I can see the mark where they rubbed on<br />
cam) so may be I will wait and see how timing and lift change when I put the crank in. but it was taken<br />
83