The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

don't think any models left the factory with chromium plated tool boxes, but they may well have been
supplied like that through USA dealers, who will have had them plated locally. It could of course be an
owner modification.
#3891 It is not generally known that the washer that prevents the knob from falling out of the lid, did in
fact originally have a threaded internal diameter that matches the thread on the screw, or did have
once !!! original assembly was easy, the washer was just screwed on, until it fell on to the 'waisted'
diameter of the screw against the knob, when a sharp tap on the end of the screw easily burred the
start/end of the thread on the washer, (or screw), it was then virtually impossible for the threaded
washer to accidentally pick up the start of the thread & unscrew & fall off when the box was opened . I
realize that all this happened long ago, & I have come across knobs with a small hole drilled through
the screw & a split pin inserted, as well as other cute mods. The fact is that it took many miles of the
washer rattling around on the waisted screw, before it finally wore the hole in the washer large enough
so that the washer fell off the thread at a time when the box was opened. I have made dozens of 'D'
boxes, exactly to the original design & use this method still. In your case, the chrome lid is of course a
'happy' mod. & the knob can be removed by the careful use of a hand held 4 inch grinder , but a simpler
way where damage to paint etc. isn't a problem, is the judicious use of an oxy cutting torch to easily
slice the side off the washer & enables it to be removed, then a new washer, (I use a rather thicker one
) can be threaded & used when you are ready to reassemble, after what one would assume to be the
removal (?) of the chrome, & a new paint job !
#3893 I appreciate the detail. This knob has a fancy flat spiral compression spring behind it that I think
did its job and prevented the assembly from vibration damage...or the box wasn't on a bike long -
#3911 There's no reason why you cannot do as suggested, but I think it is wrong about the original
washer being threaded. It is listed as a standard plain washer SL6/32. For initial assembly, this plain
washer is first placed on the plain end of the stud KA253, which is then inserted through the toolbox lid.
Then the Thackeray washer SL57/21 (we have them in stock, by the way) is slipped on the outside of
the lid, and finally the knob KA251 is pressed on.
#3894 I have to admit that I forgot about the spring washer, but it, like lots of other bits have gone
missing in a lot of cases over the years, & I don't include one in my 'boxes' (where would you buy one
anyway ?). The washer is in fact what is known as a 'thackray' (?) washer, quite common in early
Velo's, (& other bikes) as an anti- vibration device, the hand gear lever pivots was a common spot.
L #4356 Any suggestions about how to stop rear mudguard stays breaking on a Venom? The
RHS one has broken just behind the middle fixing (by the suspension). I've had this before and bought
new ones but this time I've brazed it together, repainted and refitted it. This time I've put rubber
washers on all the fixings. Any other ideas? (Other than revving less!)
#4357 Does the venom have tubular stays?, I broke one on my mac last year and fixed it by turning
down some tubing to an interference fit with the stay and putting the two pieces together, then tig
welding the break, then wrapping a piece of med gauge sheet metal around that and tiging up the seam
and ends, then sanding down and filling etc, then paint. the repair is barely noticeable ( small bulge in
the stay ) and has held up fine for several months. this is on a rigid frame mac.
#4358 Does your Venom have the centre stay fitted? i.e. the one over the top of the mudguard - part
number MAS60. Without this the whole plot will flex unduly causing premature fracture of the rear
stays.
#4359 I am surprised to note the breaking of the stay on a rigid MAC, the rigid framed models were not
prone to breakage in my experience. However noting the repair method used, - internal tubing, - outer
sleeve etc. Experience in my earlier years soon learned me that the moment you start welding broken
tubular stays, (& a lot of other things for that matter,) using any form of welding etc. the basic strength
of the parent metal is impaired to the point where eventually it may certainly break again close to the
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