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The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

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to the fibre drive gear as there is nothing to "time" between these two devices. Since the magdyno<br />

needs to have the outer cover in place when installed, the holes for above mentioned "U" shaped<br />

keeper could not possibly be used to restrict the magneto from turning once the magdyno is mounted 4<br />

degrees BTDC sound a bit late to this reader. Is it possible you are setting ignition time with the ATU<br />

bob weights in the "at rest" position? As most engines spend the bulk of their working time at full<br />

advance, there is great advantage in always setting ignition at full advance, I.E. bob weights wedged in<br />

the "out" position.<br />

#3446 I too recently faced the problem of trying to stop the mag from rotating while setting the ignition<br />

on a '46/47 MAC which I was bought for Christmas! (same age as me). I simply held the contact<br />

breaker fixing bolt and tightened as much as I dared; it has covered a few miles since with no problem.<br />

However, the timing was approximately 35 degrees too far advanced when I had checked it, so it may<br />

well slip again. If only I had the sense to solicit advice from this forum at the time ( thanks "Doctor" ). I<br />

can confirm that the 4 degrees before TDC fully retarded is correct according to the manual. <strong>The</strong><br />

advance-retard mechanism on these machines does not use conventional bob weights.<br />

L #3470 --Re topping batteries. I use a gel battery off a modern bike, no acid to spoil paintwork<br />

while breathing and no need to top up as its sealed after the initial filling.<br />

#3472 I don't know the reason why but these modern gel batteries are not recommended for bikes with<br />

magnetos/dynamos, read it recently in one of the monthly classic mags, would be interesting to know<br />

why as I know many that do use them without problems..<br />

#3493 <strong>The</strong> reason is that the old electrotechnical regulators were set too high in volts. With a normal<br />

battery this just meant they gassed off a bit, so you had to top them up with water once in a while. Gel<br />

batteries can't be topped up, so if you overcharge them they lose water and eventually don't work.<br />

Electronic regulators can be set accurately below the voltage at which this happens, so no problems -<br />

when did you last top up the battery in your car?<br />

L #3476 I'm planning on using wheel bearing/high temp grease on the magneto bearings, any<br />

suggestions of a better lubricant? Also, is the points cam follower oil wick effective or should I use light<br />

grease there as well?<br />

#3483 Almost any NLGI grade 2 grease specified for disk brake applications should be fine. <strong>The</strong> CB<br />

end will definitely benefit from both oil and a dab of Bosch or comparable contact breaker grease,<br />

especially of the ring cam still has both felts still in place. If the bike gets ridden in the rain, you might<br />

want to use boat trailer (water resistant) grease on the control spring and plunger, and a fresh rubber<br />

boot (Lucas #458731) to keep things dry.<br />

#3484 Only one wick hole in my mag cam...it has the auto advance/destruct mechanism. I'll replace the<br />

wick. Do you think it's advisable to put some kind of removable coating on the armature windings? I've<br />

read where the shellac eventually turns to goo, deposits itself on the armature, and locks up the<br />

magneto. I appreciate the help.<br />

#3487 Look carefully, is there a round felt in the hole, or just a rectangular felt in the recess at the<br />

bottom of the mag housing. Unless both are present, there is no way capillary action will "wick" (pun<br />

intended) the oil thru the cam ring and lubricate the breaker. As to the armature, your question leads<br />

me to believe this armature has not been rewound. If that is the case, I trust you have a plan for hauling<br />

your bike back home when the magneto fails. <strong>The</strong>y all do! <strong>The</strong> 50 year old windings will fail sooner or<br />

later, and the ancient capacitor will fail to restart the bike when the magneto is hot. This always occurs<br />

when you have just come out from a store after a brief ride, some fellow is admiring your bike, and tells<br />

you he had one in back in 19XX, and wishes he still had it. He will tell you about his travels while you<br />

get red in the face trying to start yours. Bite the bullet and get the mag rewound.<br />

#3488 Anything you put on might do the same - specially if it's 'removable' - what did you have in mind?<br />

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