The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club
You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
diameter . I bought a pair of clip ons from Grove which were supposedly 'Thruxton type ' but were not<br />
correct . the Velo clip on bars butt onto the tube which clamps onto the fork leg . the ones I obtained<br />
were secured in front of the fork leg clamp . I kept them until I found a pair of second hand ones at an<br />
Autojumble .<br />
#1917 What is the exact bolt up configuration for the loops most forward bolt on both sides?<br />
#1925 <strong>The</strong>se bolt into the fixing point inside the 'arcuate ' section of the frame . 5/16 bolts with<br />
spacers to ensure they clear the shock absorber tops on adjustment . <strong>The</strong> offside mount is also the<br />
mounting for the VMT oil tank.<br />
L #2170 As part of the continuing re-build I took the rear damper units off the 1963 Venom, and<br />
discovered there is about 12 thou of side play on the swing arm trunnions. Otherwise they feel fine.<br />
Now I have owned the machine since 1970 and the previous owner since 1967, and since neither he<br />
nor I ever touched them, it maybe they havent been moved since they came out of the factory. So the<br />
question is what should I do. I could 1. just tighten the thing up (need to be creative re the tool required)<br />
2. take it apart and put new felt washers in (is this still the state of the art?) 3. just forget it If I move<br />
anything I am worried about getting the whole thing lined up properly without the mystical, special<br />
alignment tool Input anyone?<br />
#2171 It depends if you are purely talking about end play or if there is play in the bushes. If end play,<br />
set bike up on centre stand with rear wheel on the ground and slacken one trunnion clamp and tap the<br />
swinging arm with a rubber hammer or similar to take up play. <strong>The</strong> relationship between the two<br />
swinging arms will remain the same. If there is play in the bushes these and a new trunnion if<br />
necessary can be obtained from Grove Classic Motorcycles (great service). I undertook this work over<br />
the winter on my Viper, and it was not as difficult as the service manual makes out. Use a local<br />
precision engineering firm to ream out the bushes to size once fitted into the frame <strong>The</strong> finished<br />
sizes/clearance can be found on the Velo Ownere <strong>Club</strong> Web Site under technical info. Setting the<br />
swinging arms up in parallel needed a little bit of ingenuity and a metre spirit level. <strong>The</strong> swinging arms<br />
were clamped together using long threaded rod and a 2 large brass plumbers nuts of a diameter wide<br />
enough to clear the trunnion and 2 suitably sized steel washers.<br />
#2187 <strong>The</strong>re should be NO endplay on the swinging arm assembly. Two special washers are pulled<br />
together using a length of studding through the "pin".<br />
L #2661 I have fitted new bushes top and bottom to my 1961 venom and reading the technical<br />
info came across this which refers to the top bush:- "Original bushes were slightly shorter with a<br />
machined grove to allow the oil to seep back to the fork leg. Only suitable for the 1.250 dia.<br />
stanchions." My bushes do not have this return groove will this be a problem?<br />
#2685 Don't worry, most of us are using non grooved bushes<br />
L #2826 According to the various books I have all I need to do is slide the fork slider tube<br />
assembly smartly along the tube to jar the seal and bush free. Does anyone have a trick or alternative<br />
method? For further information if this helps. <strong>The</strong> forks tube is rusted and must be replaced. Judging by<br />
that much of the other parts are due for replacement.<br />
#2830 That's exactly how to do it! Clamp the slider by the spindle boss in a set of soft jaws to protect it,<br />
screw out the spring from its location and remove it, then use the stanchion as a slide hammer to<br />
remove the top bush and seal - easy!.<br />
L #3133 I am currently re-building a 1970 Venom <strong>Club</strong>man, the shock absorbers are well past<br />
their best. Could anyone recommend a replacement? I have heard that NJBs are quite good? Any<br />
advice would be gratefully received..<br />
251