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The Knowledge - Velocette Owners Club

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diameter . I bought a pair of clip ons from Grove which were supposedly 'Thruxton type ' but were not<br />

correct . the Velo clip on bars butt onto the tube which clamps onto the fork leg . the ones I obtained<br />

were secured in front of the fork leg clamp . I kept them until I found a pair of second hand ones at an<br />

Autojumble .<br />

#1917 What is the exact bolt up configuration for the loops most forward bolt on both sides?<br />

#1925 <strong>The</strong>se bolt into the fixing point inside the 'arcuate ' section of the frame . 5/16 bolts with<br />

spacers to ensure they clear the shock absorber tops on adjustment . <strong>The</strong> offside mount is also the<br />

mounting for the VMT oil tank.<br />

L #2170 As part of the continuing re-build I took the rear damper units off the 1963 Venom, and<br />

discovered there is about 12 thou of side play on the swing arm trunnions. Otherwise they feel fine.<br />

Now I have owned the machine since 1970 and the previous owner since 1967, and since neither he<br />

nor I ever touched them, it maybe they havent been moved since they came out of the factory. So the<br />

question is what should I do. I could 1. just tighten the thing up (need to be creative re the tool required)<br />

2. take it apart and put new felt washers in (is this still the state of the art?) 3. just forget it If I move<br />

anything I am worried about getting the whole thing lined up properly without the mystical, special<br />

alignment tool Input anyone?<br />

#2171 It depends if you are purely talking about end play or if there is play in the bushes. If end play,<br />

set bike up on centre stand with rear wheel on the ground and slacken one trunnion clamp and tap the<br />

swinging arm with a rubber hammer or similar to take up play. <strong>The</strong> relationship between the two<br />

swinging arms will remain the same. If there is play in the bushes these and a new trunnion if<br />

necessary can be obtained from Grove Classic Motorcycles (great service). I undertook this work over<br />

the winter on my Viper, and it was not as difficult as the service manual makes out. Use a local<br />

precision engineering firm to ream out the bushes to size once fitted into the frame <strong>The</strong> finished<br />

sizes/clearance can be found on the Velo Ownere <strong>Club</strong> Web Site under technical info. Setting the<br />

swinging arms up in parallel needed a little bit of ingenuity and a metre spirit level. <strong>The</strong> swinging arms<br />

were clamped together using long threaded rod and a 2 large brass plumbers nuts of a diameter wide<br />

enough to clear the trunnion and 2 suitably sized steel washers.<br />

#2187 <strong>The</strong>re should be NO endplay on the swinging arm assembly. Two special washers are pulled<br />

together using a length of studding through the "pin".<br />

L #2661 I have fitted new bushes top and bottom to my 1961 venom and reading the technical<br />

info came across this which refers to the top bush:- "Original bushes were slightly shorter with a<br />

machined grove to allow the oil to seep back to the fork leg. Only suitable for the 1.250 dia.<br />

stanchions." My bushes do not have this return groove will this be a problem?<br />

#2685 Don't worry, most of us are using non grooved bushes<br />

L #2826 According to the various books I have all I need to do is slide the fork slider tube<br />

assembly smartly along the tube to jar the seal and bush free. Does anyone have a trick or alternative<br />

method? For further information if this helps. <strong>The</strong> forks tube is rusted and must be replaced. Judging by<br />

that much of the other parts are due for replacement.<br />

#2830 That's exactly how to do it! Clamp the slider by the spindle boss in a set of soft jaws to protect it,<br />

screw out the spring from its location and remove it, then use the stanchion as a slide hammer to<br />

remove the top bush and seal - easy!.<br />

L #3133 I am currently re-building a 1970 Venom <strong>Club</strong>man, the shock absorbers are well past<br />

their best. Could anyone recommend a replacement? I have heard that NJBs are quite good? Any<br />

advice would be gratefully received..<br />

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