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more money than fashionable boutiques do. They form the base of the retail<br />

pyramid. A design exhibition in Linz 324 in 1980 was also not the focus of interest.<br />

Entitled Design ist unsichtbar, 325 the exhibition presented several international<br />

design positions that usually stood in context to the radical design movement.<br />

However, the title does not refer to this expressive design attitude but to the<br />

everyday, and to the “design” of relations between the designed objects and their<br />

dependence on influences outside the traditional design process oriented thinking.<br />

“Invisible” design is the design of the meaningful act. Alessandro Mendini,<br />

the leader of the radical group Alchemia conceived the part of the exhibition that<br />

showed thematic aspects of design. He created the categories “space design”,<br />

“fashion design”, “banal design”, “illusionary design” and “ritual design”. Ritual<br />

design corresponds to the main title of the show. How can rituals be exhibited?<br />

The Japanese designer and theorist Kasuko Sato was commissioned with the<br />

section on ritual design:<br />

“Within the framework of the topic “Ritual Design” assigned to me, I wanted to<br />

portray a world that was a spatial and temporal void. I wanted to achieve this<br />

by using objects with ritual meaning which were imported from China with Zen<br />

Buddhism since the twelfth century, and which underwent a deep transformation<br />

thereafter according to the spirit of Japanese culture.” 326<br />

Sato built a white pyramid to show the Zen Buddhist objects. The pyramid<br />

was dark inside, and in its centre stood a pedestal with a low table with sacrificed<br />

food on it. On the wall facing the entrance were masks from No theatre. She<br />

presented objects for the Japanese tea ceremony on the other side. The cup used<br />

in the tea ceremony became the paradigm of ritual experience at the beginning<br />

of the 1980s after the writer Cees Nooteboom published his popular novel called<br />

Rituelen in which a Japanese teacup plays an important role. 327 The teacup<br />

evokes images of complex foreign rituals around it. Kakuzo Okakura, ambassador<br />

of Japanese culture, wrote:<br />

“Those who cannot feel the littleness of great things in themselves are apt<br />

to overlook the greatness of little things in others. The average Westerner,<br />

in his sleek complacency, will see in the tea-ceremony but another<br />

instance of the thousand and one oddities which constitute the quaintness<br />

and childishness of the East to him.” 328<br />

In the meantime, more and more Europeans have acquired a sense for<br />

324 Linz is the provincial capital of Upper Austria.<br />

325 “Design is invisible”.<br />

326 Sato (1981:634)*.<br />

327 Nooteboom (1995).<br />

328 Okakura (1989:31).<br />

The<br />

Death<br />

of<br />

Fashion 137

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