vienna

“There is, however, one point in the general system of fashion
where the structure is penetrated by ‘doing’ which remains
included in it (therein lies its importance); this point is what
Fashion calls the transformation (the summer dustcoat which
will become the autumn raincoat); a rather modest notion,
but one to which we will attach an exemplary value insofar
as it represents a certain solution to the conflict which constantly
sets the order of transitive behaviour in opposition to
that of signs.” 72
Transformation is described here as immanent to the structure
of designing garments. We will not discuss this micro-level
although, in the context of the show window, it could contain
evidence for a larger scale materialisation of this argument. 73
Albert Bergesen provides a hierarchical model of ritual construction.
According to him, we find on the smallest scale rituals that
are based on language, rituals he calls micro-rites. The second
level of rites is related to social interaction. These are rites with
functions related to social roles and status. The largest among
these are the macro-rites, which can be compared to formal
ceremonies. Independent occasions are often the content of such
rituals, occasions that can also be related to smaller social systems.
74 The smallest rite in this hierarchy is based on language.
Also Barthes bases his analysis on the language of fashion. If
we assume a connection between what Barthes found out by
analysing the structure of fashion’s language and the rules on
which rites based on lingual patterns are constructed, we
have the micro level of our seasonal sale ritual. According to
Bergesen, there are deep relations between the different scales
of rites:
“The Ritual Order is a hierarchical order. It is more than just
separate kinds of ritual, for the three types of ritual nest within
each other like smaller to larger kitchen pots. The Ritual Order,
like any social order, has a structural integrity that is not visible
unless all the rites are viewed in the interconnected totality.” 75
If we accept this, we can assume that the lingual level of
transforming garments from one season to another on the basis
72 Barthes (2000:291).
73 The fashion item itself is not the subject of this analysis.
74 Bergesen (1999:163).
75 Bergesen (1999:182).
Ritualisation
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