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actions. Catherine Bell pointed out that these are not universal<br />

features, but rather help in differentiating and privileging<br />

particular activities. 58 Firstly, there are codes of communication<br />

which can be summarised as the formalities of movement and<br />

speech. The second feature is the involvement of distinct and<br />

specialised personnel. The third one is the periodical occurrence of<br />

ritualisation. The orchestration of activities is the fourth feature,<br />

which deals with the interaction of individuals. Some features,<br />

however, require materialisation in the form of space and objects.<br />

Ritualisation takes place in structured space, which usually<br />

entails restricted access. This necessitates preparations in both<br />

the physical and mental states. Ultimately, objects, texts or<br />

dresses used only in the ritualised context are brought into play.<br />

Axel Michaels has contributed a set of five categories to the<br />

contest between ritual theories. Only when all of them become<br />

certifiable does he speak of a ritual. 59 The first category is<br />

a causal transition. The second is the need for a formally articulated<br />

intention followed by the need for formal criteria of enactment,<br />

such as formality, publicity and finality. Fourthly, rituals<br />

are constituted through the subjective impression, transcendent<br />

(or what he calls “religio” here) experience and the creation<br />

of ritual fellowship. The last criterion is the change of identity,<br />

status, competence and role within society. 60 There are some<br />

correspondences in the argumentations, formal practice being<br />

among those shared by many others. The formality of movement<br />

and speech is a widely shared indicator for the classification of<br />

rituals. It results from the consensual interplay between two or<br />

more persons that is repeated in recurrent contexts, creating<br />

adaptive value for those who are involved. 61 Ritual practice is<br />

a kind of behaviour that is clearly separable from that of the<br />

everyday. Human beings have the ability to distinguish between<br />

and act of movement and action when the person adds intention<br />

to the movement. 62 Ritual is recognisable as well, but there is no<br />

personal intention in its enactment:<br />

“Action is ritualized if the acts of which it is composed are<br />

58 Bell (1992:204-5).<br />

59 Michaels (2001) is convinced about the existence of the autonomous ritual action, while Bell (1992) only acknowledges<br />

ritualised actions. Such divergent viewpoints lead to a different use of terms (ritual/ritualisation) and, in the case of<br />

Michaels, an emphasis on a “transcendental” purpose of the ritual, which can be either religious or sacral. We do not favour<br />

either of the two, but agree with Michaels that it does not make sense to call every routine action a ritual (like brushing<br />

teeth). See Michaels (2001:29).<br />

60 Michaels (2001:29).<br />

61 See Bell (1997:32) on this neo-functional approach, which is related to ritualisation also found in the social lives of animals.<br />

62 Weber (1978:4). “Actions” are personally motivated, “social action” is motivated by the social relevance of the action.<br />

The<br />

Death<br />

of<br />

Fashion 27

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