10.02.2013 Views

vienna

vienna

vienna

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

from the sacrifice) is the fashion system and the victim is the<br />

past seasonal collection. In a metaphorical setting, we have killed<br />

the victim by cutting the price (the aorta) after which the consumers<br />

(the ritual audience) are invited to the common meal where<br />

the victim is dismembered by the bare hands of the bargain<br />

hunters (feeding the community). The customers confirm death<br />

consciously by way of enactment. This dramatisation of violence<br />

has been discussed as being contrary to the theory of shopping<br />

as a sacrifice by Daniel Miller. 642 Both approaches are based on<br />

the concept of thrift. A difference emerges from this premise.<br />

While Miller analyses everyday shopping as a sacrificial act, we<br />

face an elaborated festival of thrift by the fashion industry in<br />

the seasonal sale. The sacrifice of the seasonal collection during<br />

the sales can be compared with the ancient rites of the sacrifice<br />

of the god because the victim (fashion collection) represents<br />

the god (fashion). The last step of the sacrifice is the resurrection<br />

of the god and is dramatised through the magical treatment of<br />

signs. The “naked mannequin” is only re-dressed after the sales<br />

period. This magical action also has its ancestors in antiquity.<br />

New life was symbolically transferred to the new resurrected god<br />

by dressing the statue with a shirt.<br />

The results of this research can also be applied to a more<br />

general discussion about the commodity fetish. We would like to<br />

transcend the “death of fashion” to the “death of the commodity<br />

fetish”. The notion of producing ever-newer generations of<br />

commodities, which are only based on the change of aesthetic<br />

properties, can be enhanced by a new point of view. It is not<br />

just the introduction of the novelty that keeps the system running<br />

but also the sacrifice of the aesthetically obsolete commodity.<br />

The death of the commodity fetish has to be added to the critique<br />

of commodity fetish. We see this clearly in the example of the<br />

shoe shop in Paris. Since there is a pedestal in the window, the<br />

shoes are on a throne during the season. When the seasonal<br />

sale arrives, the shoes are thrown onto the floor. The throne<br />

is now empty. This symbolic inversion has been successfully<br />

deployed since ancient times to moderate tensions caused by<br />

an asymmetrical power relation. It is the dramatisation of the<br />

death of the king, or, in terms of the commodity culture, the<br />

death of the commodity fetish on a regularly basis. Consumer<br />

642 Miller (1998a).<br />

The Death of Fashion<br />

266

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!