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wear our “winter jacket” instead of our “summer jacket” when<br />

the weather conditions change. The need to wear warmer or<br />

cooler garments is thus a good reason for linking the fashion<br />

year to the natural seasons. This natural order can also be reflected<br />

in that of our wardrobes at home. During the cold season,<br />

all the pieces for summer have a place in the rear. This order<br />

is then changed when the seasons change. As in former times,<br />

we still have a representation of nature as an ordering structure<br />

in our homes, although behind closed doors. Maybe this is a<br />

hidden ritual in our consumer society according to which we<br />

also restructure the order of garments in our wardrobe in spring<br />

and autumn. This is when we become aware of the seasons and<br />

begin to mentally prepare ourselves for the warm or the cold<br />

time of the year. 100 The awakening of nature in spring, summer,<br />

and its change in autumn and winter are natural references for<br />

the dramatisation of fashion collections. This why we pointed<br />

out that the fashion industry has a natural reference for creating<br />

collections according to the seasons. What is not clear for the<br />

moment is why garments become outdated, and why we face<br />

new fashions two times a year. Why do several consumer groups<br />

feel the need to discard the previous season’s designs? What<br />

creates the social pressure to buy new clothes even though the<br />

old ones could still be used? What forces fashion shops to get rid<br />

of their stock of the past collection as fast as they can, and by any<br />

means? According to Thorstein Veblen, the reasons for it are<br />

manifold. In his Theory of the Leisure Class, Veblen argued that<br />

the change of fashion is motivated by the upper class’s desire to<br />

display its social status through demonstrative wastefulness, a<br />

wastefulness that creates prestige. Fashion, in this context, is<br />

a good medium for such efforts. Another way to show wastefulness<br />

is the creation of new fashion trends.<br />

”Having so explained the phenomenon of shifting fashions, the<br />

next thing is to make the explanation tally with everyday facts.<br />

Among these everyday facts is the well-known liking which<br />

all men have of the styles that are in vogue at any given time. A<br />

new style comes into vogue and remains in favour for a season,<br />

and, at least so long as it is a novelty, people generally find<br />

the style very attractive. The prevailing fashion is felt to be<br />

100 We are speaking from the middle European point of view, but fashion collections are introduced in the same way even in<br />

places such as Hong Kong where the seasons do not vary much. The show windows present pullovers and winter coats for<br />

the winter collection despite the hot weather conditions.<br />

Fashion Cycle<br />

38

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