10.02.2013 Views

vienna

vienna

vienna

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

of the show window, the interaction takes place between the<br />

window dresser, as the person responsible for the materialisation<br />

of the seasonal sale animation, and the passer-by, who is the<br />

recipient of the message transmitted through the medium of the<br />

decorated window. This one-way communication is no hindrance<br />

in relating our case to ritual constructions in general. Maybe the<br />

attitudes of the shoppers change as well, and this would be an<br />

important argument for the indication of a ritual construction in<br />

studies more focused on the human interaction than on the aspect<br />

of materialisation. 66 If we transfer the argument of not doing<br />

what each of us would like to do to the design of the seasonal<br />

sale window, it would prompt the window designer to follow an<br />

aesthetic plan that is not in keeping with his individual ideas. The<br />

window dresser would no longer express his individual ideas<br />

but would merely pretend to design. We will take this argument<br />

as a hypothesis and make a note of it for our discussion. If we<br />

speak of the seasonal sale as a ritual, we will find that it does<br />

not provide any instructions for acting that are not motivated<br />

by the actors themselves. Ritual attitude accepts that we are<br />

not ourselves the authors of what we are doing, 67 a strange<br />

perspective of the creative people involved in the process of<br />

merchandising. 68 Another widely shared argument is that rituals<br />

have a transitional function. 69 This criterion also marks out the<br />

ceremony, which has some formal criteria in common with the<br />

ritual. While rituals transform, ceremonies have the function to<br />

indicate. 70 The fashion year is basically divided into two seasons.<br />

In terms of time, the seasonal sale is a transition between the<br />

seasons when shops stop selling the past fashion and want to<br />

get rid of their stock and the arrival of the new collection. As the<br />

event takes place at the same time every year, traditional ritual<br />

studies could call it a calendar rite. 71 Consumer culture has constructed<br />

a method of structuring time in a society less and less<br />

orientated to nature but to the consumption of consumer goods.<br />

It is no longer nature that structures our year, but the nature<br />

of the production of fashion items. Roland Barthes argued that<br />

when we look at special categories of fashion items we can see<br />

that they transform from one season to the next:<br />

66 Humphrey/Laidlaw (1994:97) emphasise the importance of the ritual attitude of the persons involved in rituals.<br />

67 Humphrey/Laidlaw (1994:98).<br />

68 Especially in a creative world full of star authors.<br />

69 Wiedenmann (1991:14).<br />

70 Turner (1982:80).<br />

71 Calendar rites have the important social function of structuring time, whereby they also stablise our perception of time. It is<br />

not our aim to categorise our case study in this way.<br />

The<br />

Death<br />

of<br />

Fashion 29

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!