Brand, Identity and Reputation: Exploring, Creating New Realities ...

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Session 8.1 The Role of Communication in Establishing Asian High Fashion Brands in the West Benaliza Loo, Royal Holloway University of London, UK Chris Hackley, Royal Holloway University of London, UK Culture‘s Influence on Consumer Purchase Attitudes toward Luxury Fashion Brands over the Internet: Development of Conceptual Framework Jaehee Jung, University of Delaware, U.S.A. Validation of Brand Experience Instrument to measure Young Consumers Experience with Fashion Brands Ahmed Rageh, Fayoum University, Egypt T C Melewar, Brunel University, U.K. Marc Fetscherin, Rollins College, USA An Exploration of Own Brand Retailers‘ Perspectives on Sustainable Consumption of Clothing Helen Goworek, Nottingham Trent University Is this Sponsor a Good Exemplar? Investigating Sport Sponsorship as a Goal-Derived Category Peter Dickenson, Loughborough University, United Kingdom Chanaka Jayawardhena, Loughborough University, United Kingdom 206
The Role of Communication in Establishing Asian High Fashion Brands in the West Benaliza Loo, Royal Holloway University of London, UK Chris Hackley, Royal Holloway University of London, UK Introduction This paper explores the role of communication in establishing an Asian high fashion brand in the West. It draws on a wider qualitative study of the internationalisation of South East Asian high fashion brands to focus on four leading Malaysian designer brands: Zang Toi, Bernard Chandran, Melinda Looi and Jimmy Choo. Findings suggest that key issues include choice of brand name, consumer perception of value and quality, English language competence and ability to adapt to local culture, clarity of communication with internal and external networks, excellent and innovative brand identity, and astute use of media, showbusiness and other integrated marketing communication channels. Limitations and future research directions are discussed. Research in High Fashion Brand retailing The relatively under-researched marketing area of global high fashion is deserving of serious attention from researchers, not least because it has sustained one of the highest annual growth rates of any industrial sector over the past ten years (Okonkwo, 2007). Hines and Bruce (2007) suggest that fashion mixes aesthetics, technology and business, and crosses boundaries between marketing and the cultural industries. There are many definitions of ―Fashion‖ and each definition encompasses different aspects, such as garments, clothing, apparel, glamour, trend, style or an individual‘s distinctive identity (Remaury, 1999; Niessen et al, 2003; Easey, 1995; Bruce et al, 2004). The concept of fashion in this paper is predominantly focused on clothing, which becomes ‗fashion‘ through branding. In particular, the study focuses not on mass market or high street fashion but on the establishment of ready-to-wear designer ranges by Haute Couture Houses (Sorenson, 1995), hence the ‗high fashion‘ designation for this research. These categories are not unproblematic. In some cases, the fame of the ready-to-wear range means that the designer is then commissioned asked to make more couture. In other words, the process of brand building can occur in reverse, not from haute couture downwards, but from designer wear upwards. Giorgio Armani for example, decided in 2005 to begin showing haute couture for the first time (Tungate, 2005). High fashion designers establishing their brands typically have one prestige flagship retail store in a major capital city consistent with Jackson and Shaw‘s (2001) taxonomic category of the ― ‗Single Independent‘ store, and they typically rely heavily on the prestige of the key designer as a personified brand. The branding of high fashion dates from the mid-nineteenth century in Paris when the couturier, Worth, branded his designs in order to discourage counterfeiting (De Marly, 1980). Western high fashion brands have enjoyed global success as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Gianni Versace, Calvin Klein, Dolce & Gabanna among many others are now hugely popular in South East Asia. There have been some notable successes in the opposite direction with Asian high fashion brands becoming recognised in the West but these successes remain uneven in origin, exceptional and relatively small in number. Moore et al (2000) have highlighted that ‗designer‘ brands has been a neglected area in the international retail branding literature. Among the Asian high fashion brands that have been successful in the West, most have historically been from Japan and Hong Kong (Niessen et al, 2003: 216; Pointer, 1998). Other successes include Andrew Gn from Singapore, Thakoon Panichgul and Nagara Sambandaraksa from Thailand, Zaldy Coco from Philippines, and Oscar Lawalata and Irsan from Indonesia (Chin, 2005, Niessen et al, 2003). However, it is surprising to discover that, among South East Asia, the internationalisation of Malaysia high fashion brands is at the forefront. The increased development of internationally successful Asian brands is clearly dependent on stronger branding (Roll 2006: Temporal, 2006) and this needs to take into account of many factors especially the consumers‘ sense of the uniqueness, value and quality of the brand identity (Chernatony and McDonald, 2003; Aaker, 1996). It is therefore interesting to take some leading Malaysian high fashion brands as exemplary cases of successful internationalisation in this competitive and growing field. Method Following Yin (1994), Hackley (2003) and Miles and Huberman (1994) this study deployed a qualitative case study approach in seeking rich contextual descriptions and insights in this previously under-researched area. Interviews were conducted between December 2006 and September 2008 in the interviewees‘ business premises in Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, London and New York, and were digitally recorded, transcribed and analysed according to qualitative data analytic principles of coding, thematic interpretation and triangulation through extensive secondary information about the companies‘ activities. Sampling was purposive and focused on leading Malaysian designers since these have been the most successful of all South East Asian brands in establishing in the West. Findings: the value of publicity High fashion branding is driven by publicity (Sorenson, 1995) which in turn generates word of mouth, but founded on strong brand values. Establishing a new high fashion brand normally entails heavy investment in a production facility and line of products, a flagship retail outlet, and presence at the right fashion shows. The catwalk shows are the main platform for designers and the goal is to get noticed by fashion journalists and other influential individuals. If successful, this creates momentum for the brand through publicity and, if the designer is lucky, celebrity endorsement if their brand is chosen to wear by stars at public occasions, generating even more publicity. Contacts and connection to industry networks are essential to facilitate the publicity. For example, Vogue magazine fashion editor Tamara Mellon took up the cause of Jimmy Choo shoes and did much to enhance their image. Princess Diana then began to favour 207
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Book of Proceedings Brand, Identity
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Session 1.1 Emotional Branding in T
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p.31) consumers tend to those sourc
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Tables and figures Brand perception
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Malaysia‘s Global Halal Hub - ―
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Birds of a Feather Consume Sports T
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Session 1.2 How is Social Media, li
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2. Interviews made with the adminis
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Table-5 Facebook Members of Homeles
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content (UGC) or even direct intera
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Fierman, (1991) found that 47% of c
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Multiple Dimensions of Brand Identi
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Session 1.3 Corporate Identity, Cor
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CSR are the ideals and ethics of co
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Corporate Brand Identity Management
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To study the influence of B2B relat
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Antecedents And Consequences Of Bra
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22. Gurviez, P., and Korchia, M. (2
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Non-monetary factors, such as effor
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23. Holbrook, M.B. (2006). Consumpt
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Brand Extensions and Culture: The I
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avoidance tend to prefer more infor
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Virtual Internal Brand Communities:
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References 1. Algesheimer, R., Dhol
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associations based on their percept
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shift in the psychological contract
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10. Berthon, P., Ewing, M., & Hah,
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Session 2.1 Global Brand Relationsh
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G. Brand Personality Excitement Hon
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The Impact of Relationship Marketin
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‗United 2010-one for all, all for
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Brand Equity Trends in Top Global B
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Uncovering ‗Meanings‘ through A
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45. Melewar, T.C. and Saunders, J.
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Thus, from a design perspective, we
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Keywords Brands, marketing, meaning
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How Important is the Brand Name Ele
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References 1. Aaker, D. (1991). Man
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Simon Cowell and Branding the X Fac
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Dead or Living: Which Celebrity To
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Reference 1. Bagozzi, R.P. & Yi, Y.
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has been adopted and within this an
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Organizational Factors Contributing
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examine and reconcile existing lite
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Effects of Corporate Social Respons
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15. Morsing M, & Schultz M. (2006).
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1989). But if the information avail
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An Inquiry into Corporate Heritage
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3. Balmer, J. M. T., & Greyser, S.
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Research questions and methodology
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Building Corporate Reputation: A Di
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Session 3.1 Financial vs. Consumer-
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For indicating brand equity, one of
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Financial Brand Valuation: an exper
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Figure 1 Religiously Motivated Cons
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I Don‘t Like It! - Understanding
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Session 3.2 Advertising Agency Empl
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applications of the Repertory Test
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The Life Cycle of Mavens Lynne Free
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Exploring the relationship between
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internal branding process. Internal
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proper branding strategy. With the
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Profiling the Image of Urban Busine
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Finally, the paper confirms the cau
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Table 3 Image differences according
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associated with the brand‖ (Aaker
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Figure 1 - Number of adjectives sel
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Figure 5 - Main attributes of a gol
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Empirical Studies For both studies,
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Figure 2: Perception of the City of
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Co-branding places? Andrea Lucarell
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12. Lucarelli, A., & Berg, P. O. (2
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the place brands, as has been showe
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Session 3.4 Innovation and Entrepre
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The interviews were conducted in th
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Country-of-Origin Effects on Brand
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7. Kaynak, E., Kucukemiroglu, O. &
Page 155 and 156: Results The demographic profile ind
Page 157 and 158: use games consoles (Childwise, 2001
Page 159 and 160: Plenary Session 2 Brand Performance
Page 161 and 162: Uncles, M.D. & Kwok, S. (2008). Gen
Page 163 and 164: Brand Management Framework Empirica
Page 165 and 166: Coneptualising Branding in Indian P
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Page 169 and 170: Concentrating on the actual practic
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Page 173 and 174: Session 7.2 Brand Personification a
Page 175 and 176: Importance of Country Image to Mega
Page 177 and 178: Table 1: Evaluative Responses for t
Page 179 and 180: To be Similar or Unique? Implicatio
Page 181 and 182: Brown, T. J., Dacin, P. A., Pratt,
Page 183 and 184: A brand-driven strategy oriented to
Page 185 and 186: Rheingold, H. (1993). The Virtual C
Page 187 and 188: A Framework for Public Sector Brand
Page 189 and 190: Conclusion Public sector organisati
Page 191 and 192: A strategic investigation into the
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Page 195 and 196: Brand Hypocrisy Sanne Frandsen, Cop
Page 197 and 198: Table 1: Empirical Findings Theory
Page 199 and 200: Brand Governance in Social Networki
Page 201 and 202: Determinants Brand Orientation Va
Page 203 and 204: When Individual Experience becomes
Page 205: Impact of Storytelling on Consumer
Page 209 and 210: Culture‘s Influence on Consumer P
Page 211 and 212: + Top-Down Dynamic between Luxury F
Page 213 and 214: Analysis and results We assessed th
Page 215 and 216: An Exploration of Own Brand Retaile
Page 217 and 218: 11. ETI 2010. Ethical Trading Initi
Page 219 and 220: When investigating unique significa
Page 221 and 222: Session 8.2 Closing the Gaps - the
Page 223 and 224: accomplishing reality rather than d
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Page 231 and 232: Segmenting McDonalds: Measuring Bra
Page 233 and 234: A simple eyeballing of the segment
Page 235 and 236: Segment 2 Segment 3 Segment 4 235
Page 237 and 238: Session 8.3 Brand Attitudes and the
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Page 243 and 244: Table 1: Description of the cigaret
Page 245 and 246: Exploring differences in product at
Page 247 and 248: Based on the results some general c
Page 249 and 250: Data was collected by independent j
Page 251 and 252: Sonic branding: A review of literat
Page 253 and 254: How is green seen? Exploring the im
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Generally speaking, people use exte
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How Retail Banks Use Atmosphere to
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Actually, we don‘t feel constrain
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Introduction Reputation and Financi
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Chun, R. & Davies G. (2009). Employ
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Identity, Reputation and Organizati
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Introduction Factors Affecting Bran
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A quiet important approach then bec
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27. Gentry, C.R., ―Building on Br
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Together these issues have resulted
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elations. If the contact persons tr
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How do you Really Know? Exploring B
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Originality/value The psychology li
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asked ―did you see any of these c
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expressivity (Ω experts = 0,96 p
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Next are brand associations, also r
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Table 1: Selection of variables, it
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Special Session Issues in Brand Gov
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A Competance based Brand: Meaning a
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Session 12.4 Special Session Topic:
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Brand Meaning Co-Creation of Newcom
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Leonor Vacas de Carvalho, Évora Un
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Ronaldo Schutz, University of the A
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