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FROM COLD WAR TO HOT PEACE 475<br />

London only an hour before. As a result of this confirmation<br />

that a joint CIA-NSA listening operation was being directed<br />

towards the UN headquarters, Smith was more careful with his<br />

communications thereafter, often using the encrypted radios of<br />

the Special Air Service, which he believed to be more secure. 28<br />

Perhaps the most historic change for GCHQ in the early 1990s<br />

was the loss of its listening station in Hong Kong, which, but<br />

for a brief interruption during the Second World War, had been<br />

there since the early days of GC&CS. This was triggered by the<br />

impending transfer of Hong Kong to Chinese rule. Washington<br />

viewed Hong Kong as an irreplaceable watchtower on China.<br />

For years British diplomats had complained that Britain was<br />

collecting more intelligence about China than it could possibly<br />

need, and had asked why this target was so important. The<br />

underlying rationale was exchange with the Americans. Hong<br />

Kong was the single most valuable British collection station to<br />

NSA, providing offset in an otherwise unbalanced Anglo­<br />

American intelligence relationship.29<br />

Notwithstanding the fact that NSA knew the British would<br />

have to leave in 1997, it had poured huge investment into<br />

British sigint at Hong Kong. In 1982 the GCHQ station at Little<br />

Sai Wan, which had depended on listeners with headphones,<br />

had been closed down and replaced by a new operation at Chum<br />

Hom Kok, on the south side of the island, which monitored<br />

satellite activity.30 This new station was initially given the code<br />

name 'Demos-I'.3l The problem with the location was accommodating<br />

the massive dishes - there were eventually five - on<br />

what was a narrow shelf of rock overlooking the South China<br />

Sea. 32 Chinese agents took a close interest in the station, so<br />

there were tight procedures whereby a 'cleared expatriate' supervised<br />

the moving of classified waste to a vast 'Refudoc' incinerator<br />

in the main building. The bum bags full of top-secret<br />

sigint material were huge, standing three feet high and weighing<br />

about thirty pounds. 33<br />

Despite the problems of its precarious site, Demos-I had

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