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Home life in Hellas, Greece and the Greeks - eBooks4Greeks.gr

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86 HOME LIFE IN HELLASfrom that isl<strong>and</strong> ; some were from Psara, <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rsfrom Crete. They went first to Tenos <strong>and</strong> werebadly received. They tried Zea <strong>and</strong> were turnedaway. Then <strong>the</strong>y came to Syra, <strong>in</strong>habited by afew Lat<strong>in</strong>s under French protection, a crag <strong>and</strong>little more, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>y made it what it is, <strong>the</strong>wealthiest <strong>and</strong> most cultured isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> JEgean ;Tenos <strong>and</strong> Zea, through <strong>the</strong>ir churlishness ortimidity, lost more than <strong>the</strong>y knew. Syra is amonument to Greek vitality, <strong>and</strong> it is noteworthythat it was created by <strong>Greeks</strong> of Asia. Hermoupoliswith its 18,700 <strong>in</strong>habitants has no water.All has to be brought from afar, yet its streets arekept clean <strong>and</strong> well watered. It is characteristicthat Syra, arid <strong>and</strong> scant of irrigation, suppliesA<strong>the</strong>ns with early vegetables. The town runs up<strong>the</strong> steep slope, a white heap of houses very conspicuous<strong>and</strong> strik<strong>in</strong>g from <strong>the</strong> sea. The oldLat<strong>in</strong> town is at <strong>the</strong> top, with its old church of St.George, which has a rival now <strong>in</strong> a large Greekchurch. But <strong>the</strong> little church of <strong>the</strong> Transfigurationdown by <strong>the</strong> shore is dearer to <strong>the</strong> Syriotesthan <strong>the</strong>ir big ca<strong>the</strong>dral. It was built before <strong>the</strong>ybuilt <strong>the</strong>ir first two-storeyed house, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> its nave<strong>in</strong> 1825 Luke Ralli—a name well known <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong><strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> India—first named <strong>the</strong> new settlementHermoupolis.With<strong>in</strong> sight of bright <strong>and</strong> busy Syra is Gyaros,its anti<strong>the</strong>sis. The smallest of <strong>the</strong> Cyclades, it hastwo wells <strong>and</strong> four <strong>in</strong>habitants. There are smallerisl<strong>and</strong>s to which shepherds resort at certa<strong>in</strong> seasons

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