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Home life in Hellas, Greece and the Greeks - eBooks4Greeks.gr

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THE ISLES 97company of M. Sommaripa, who was go<strong>in</strong>g to hispyrgos, as <strong>the</strong>y call <strong>the</strong>ir country-houses—<strong>and</strong>towers <strong>the</strong>y really are,stout <strong>and</strong> foursquare with<strong>the</strong> forked battlements of mediaeval Italy, dat<strong>in</strong>gfrom <strong>the</strong> times when <strong>the</strong>y had to be held aga<strong>in</strong>st<strong>the</strong> descents of corsairs. At <strong>the</strong> gate of this one weparted from its owner.We had no time to accepthis proffered hospitality, which we re<strong>gr</strong>etted, for<strong>the</strong>se towers stillconta<strong>in</strong> here <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>re preciousspecimens of old Venetian furniture. And <strong>the</strong>Sommaripa, who came from Verona <strong>in</strong> 1390, werelords of Paros <strong>and</strong> Andros, <strong>and</strong> held <strong>the</strong> latteruntil <strong>the</strong> Turkish conquest. The family rankednext to <strong>the</strong> Ducal House <strong>and</strong> were connected withit by marriage. M. Sommaripa chatted pleasantlyto us <strong>in</strong> courtly, measured French. A f<strong>in</strong>e hidalgolikefigure, his appearance <strong>and</strong> bear<strong>in</strong>g were <strong>in</strong>keep<strong>in</strong>g with his mediaeval tower. He was quite<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world here, he said, for <strong>the</strong> pyrgos comm<strong>and</strong>eda distant view of Naxia, <strong>the</strong> sea, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>weekly steamer.After a long ascent <strong>the</strong> valley ofTrageia, <strong>the</strong> broad central hollow of <strong>the</strong> isl<strong>and</strong>,burst upon us suddenly, <strong>the</strong> slender peak ofCoronon dom<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> north, <strong>the</strong> sharp ridge ofZia <strong>the</strong> south. Trageia, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> centre of <strong>the</strong>bas<strong>in</strong>, nestled amid olive <strong>gr</strong>oves, m<strong>in</strong>gled with<strong>the</strong> denser <strong>gr</strong>een of oak <strong>and</strong> plane. The threevillages of Potamia stood out sharply on <strong>the</strong>opposite slopes, <strong>and</strong> high up <strong>the</strong> steep Philoti"tw<strong>in</strong>kled like a <strong>gr</strong>a<strong>in</strong> of salt." Grey oldchurches <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> richly timbered lowl<strong>and</strong>s lent

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