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Home life in Hellas, Greece and the Greeks - eBooks4Greeks.gr

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ATHENS 313ma<strong>in</strong>s of <strong>the</strong> new A<strong>the</strong>ns reared by <strong>the</strong> Emperor.The region south of <strong>the</strong> Acropolis, an importantquarter of <strong>the</strong> city <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> time of Thucydides, isnow deserted. The venerable rock is no longer<strong>the</strong> centre of A<strong>the</strong>ns, which <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se days hasspread northwards.Follow<strong>in</strong>g Hadrian Street westward we come toa busier quarter, <strong>the</strong> nucleus of old A<strong>the</strong>ns/ wheretraces of <strong>the</strong> Turk are m<strong>in</strong>gled with <strong>the</strong> relics ofantiquity. The shops <strong>and</strong> cafes are meaner thanthose of new A<strong>the</strong>ns, but <strong>the</strong> district has morecharacter <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>terest. Here history was made.Stadium Street <strong>and</strong> Concord Square have no storyto tell.Old-fashioned people cl<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> quarter.The bubbl<strong>in</strong>g nargileh rem<strong>in</strong>ds us that we are <strong>in</strong><strong>the</strong> East. A narrow street devoted to shoemakers,<strong>and</strong> ano<strong>the</strong>r given up to <strong>the</strong> d<strong>in</strong> of coppersmithswith <strong>the</strong>ir " rude mechanicals that work for bread,upon A<strong>the</strong>nian stalls," are vestiges of <strong>the</strong> oldbazaar. Here is <strong>the</strong> dismantled mosque, to <strong>the</strong>build<strong>in</strong>g of which went one of <strong>the</strong> <strong>gr</strong>eat columnsof <strong>the</strong> Olympeion—<strong>in</strong> pieces. Beside it st<strong>and</strong>s aCor<strong>in</strong>thian facade, a fragment of <strong>the</strong> Stoa ofHadrian, <strong>and</strong> successively <strong>the</strong> Palace of <strong>the</strong>Frankish <strong>and</strong> Turkish Governors, demolishedunder K<strong>in</strong>g Otho. Westward is <strong>the</strong> Doric gatewayof A<strong>the</strong>na Archegetes <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> Clepsydra ofAndronicos Cyrrhestes—<strong>the</strong> Tower of <strong>the</strong> W<strong>in</strong>ds,which gives its name to ^olus Street, stretch<strong>in</strong>gnorthward <strong>in</strong> a long perspective. It is hard torealise that this monument was once a tekkeh of

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