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kAl Puisip neqaa taartuuvoq qalipaataa mamassusaatut sakkortuujulluni. Neqaata sakkortussusiata ilaa peerneqarsinnaavoq akunnerni arfinilinni lagimi kinikkaanni. Tamatuma kingorna pujoorneqassaaq. Fusion cuisine Sarfalik is the name of a restaurant with an ambitious cuisine, where Swedish chef Mikael Hansson reinterprets Greenlandic food By Jørgen Chemnitz Restaurant Sarfalik at the top of Hotel Hans Egede in Nuuk has a modern design, the chairs have umbracoloured upholstery and the walls are a light, creamy colour. In the winter, the light is soft and warm and in the light, summer months there is a view of the centre of Nuuk through the large windows – a view across the rooftops, with the fjord and Nordlandet in the distance. This is the top of Nuuk. The restaurant can seat 60 guests and the menu changes every third month. The season’s ingredients determine what the kitchen produces. – The menu is determined by the seasons in Greenland. We also take into account whether, e.g. asparagus or rhubarb are available in Denmark, but we follow the seasons here in Greenland, with crowberries, mountain cranberries and angelica and fish and game. We strive to combine things, but everything has to have a purpose on the plate, says Chef Mikael Hansson at Sarfalik, which means »place with current« in Greenlandic. There are some repeats on the menu, such as the superb meat from reindeer, musk ox and Greenlandic lamb. Variations of dishes based on these three meat types are always on the menu. – The fish dishes are more varied, because they are based on 72 Dk Sælkød er mørk og dyb i farven og smagen ligeså. Noget af kødets intensitet bliver trukket ud ved at ligge i saltlage i seks timer. Derefter bliver det røget. GB Seal meat is dark and deep in colour and so is the taste. Some of the intensity of the meat is drawn out by soaking in brine for six hours. The meat is then smoked. the fishermen’s catch of the day, which changes with the seasons. curioSity – Many visitors are interested in tasting whale and seal meat. They want to go home and say: »Wow, I have eaten seal«. Most people like it, says Mikael Hansson. For guests from abroad, seal and whale meat are very unusual ingredients and they are served at restaurant Sarfalik, although not in the typical Greenlandic fashion, which is often boiled or sometimes fried. – It is a »tourist dish«, says Mikael Hansson about his whale and seal dish. – I serve the whale meat cold and raw. It is served in extremely thin slices that have a very intense taste, but it is not the overpowering taste you get, if you fry whale meat like a steak. Greenlanders, who try this dish, like the way it is served. The seal meat is salted and smoked. The salt extracts some of the taste from the strong meat, although the meat retains its distinct flavour. Finally, the seal meat is smoked to further balance the flavour.
What do We drink? Greenlandic meat, in particular seal, whale and musk ox meat, is a great challenge with regard to choosing a suitable wine. – I think champagne for seal is a good choice. Champagne is dry, and it is the acidity and freshness of the bubbles that does it. They really go well together, says restaurant manager Victor Næss, who buys the wines. The alternative to champagne is, according to the restaurant manager, a young rosé, which has the dryness of champagne, but also has a light, fruity taste. When selecting wine to suit the meal, the challenge is to have the wine complement the food, providing a little opposition. It is about creating balance between the taste of the sweet and sour, salt and bitter. According to Victor Ness, musk ox meat has a very complex and varied taste, but it still requires a little opposition and he therefore recommends Bourgogne or Rhone wines. The fish dishes are a challenge of their own. – In our kitchen, the sauces often determine the choice of wine. If you have a light fish in a heavy sauce, we recommend a different wine than we would, for a light, citrus sauce. A heavy sauce requires a very acidic wine. alSo lunch – The restaurant is a wonderful place and we would like to use it for more than just evening meals, so last year we started to serve lunch in here, tells Mikael Hansson. »Sarfalik LUNCH« started with lunches of high quality: Root vegetable soup, smoked salmon with capers and chives – or how about a fish platter with prawns, salmon and halibut? Since the start, classic Danish openfaced sandwiches have been Suluk #03 Air Greenland Inflight Magazine 2012 added to the menu: Crab/prawn salad, smoked halibut, game pâté, beef patty with softfried onions and fried egg or roast beef with crispyfried onions and remoulade sauce. – There are business people, who want a quiet lunch and they can get that here, says Mikael Hansson. If you order beforehand, you can enjoy a good lunch in just 30 minutes. the perfect fuSion – Hansson with two s’s, says the chef in Swedish, with a broad accent. He qualified as a cook 15 years ago and he worked in a series of restaurants in Malmø, before going to Nuuk in 2002. He has been chef since Sarfalik opened four years ago. On the menu, Mikael Hansson describes the style as a fusion of »the new Nordic cuisine« with focus on Greenlandic ingredients. The international appearance is completed by his Swedish background and by being an adopted son from Pakistan. – Culture, of course, determines taste. I cannot say: Noone likes that. Taste is a question of tradition. The chef’s own favourites are the raw ingredients. – I love to eat and serve raw, marinated fish and shellfish. We serve raw prawns, which are otherwise only for export to China and Japan. I like it, when you do not »drown« too much of the taste. When it is raw, there is more background taste. Raw prawns taste fattier, not as salty. I love the taste of wolffish and the taste of blue mussels is fantastic. When we get the ingredients, we serve them the same evening, or we vacuumpack and freeze them to maintain »top notch quality«. Most of it is extremely good, ends the chef of Sarfalik. kAl Neriniartarfik Sarfalik. Dk Et kig ud over restaurant Sarfalik. GB Restaurant Sarfalik. 73
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