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Revolution in the Arab World - Observation of a lost soul Blog

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foreign policy • revolution <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> arab world • 18 days<br />

That was, <strong>of</strong> course, complete nonsense—but it still seemed like it was<br />

work<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

On Friday, Feb. 4—optimistically billed as <strong>the</strong> “Day <strong>of</strong> Departure”—I<br />

met dozens <strong>of</strong> young Egyptians who <strong>of</strong>ten boiled <strong>the</strong>ir demands down to<br />

one simple word: “freedom.” Tarek al-Alfy, a 30-year-old tech entrepreneur<br />

from Giza, told me that he had come to <strong>the</strong> protests for <strong>the</strong> first time that<br />

day to express his outrage at <strong>the</strong> government’s unprecedented shutdown <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Internet. “I felt like I was liv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> North Korea, so I decided to go to<br />

Tahrir,” he said. “I want a fair constitution.”<br />

Near <strong>the</strong> museum, where a half-dozen burned-out police vehicles were<br />

scattered at <strong>the</strong> scene <strong>of</strong> Feb. 2’s battles, I met Mohamed Abdel el-A<strong>in</strong>e<strong>in</strong>, a<br />

49-year-old mechanic Army veteran who was rest<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> driver’s seat <strong>of</strong> a<br />

truck, his head bandaged from a nasty direct hit. He was too tired to speak.<br />

A doctor at <strong>the</strong> makeshift cl<strong>in</strong>ic nearby, Ahmed Abdel Rahim, told me he<br />

had watched five people die overnight and said he had treated “dozens” <strong>of</strong><br />

trauma victims s<strong>in</strong>ce 6 a.m. that day. As I spoke with him, a young man with<br />

<strong>the</strong> word “paradise” written on a piece <strong>of</strong> paper taped to his shirt walked by,<br />

headed to <strong>the</strong> front l<strong>in</strong>es.<br />

Magdy Soliman, a 38-year-old computer programmer, volunteered to be<br />

my guide for <strong>the</strong> day and help me get <strong>the</strong> lay <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> land. At a d<strong>in</strong>gy downtown<br />

cafe, smok<strong>in</strong>g harsh, honey-flavored shisha and dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g tea from<br />

grubby glass cups, his two friends—both with master’s degrees <strong>in</strong> agricultural<br />

eng<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g—told me <strong>of</strong> how <strong>the</strong>y had to pay bribes for “everyth<strong>in</strong>g”<br />

<strong>in</strong>volv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> government. “I have to pay some guy 600 Egyptian pounds to<br />

get a driver’s license,” said Ahmed Khalil, 35. “Why It’s my right. We want<br />

to smell freedom.”<br />

Soliman asked me whe<strong>the</strong>r I thought <strong>the</strong> protesters were go<strong>in</strong>g to w<strong>in</strong>. I<br />

told him I wasn’t sure but that I hoped so.<br />

“A lot <strong>of</strong> people will get arrested,” he worried. Ahmed was blunter: “They<br />

will kill us for sure.”<br />

Mubarak did not, <strong>of</strong> course, depart that Friday.<br />

Over <strong>the</strong> weekend, momentum seemed to shift fur<strong>the</strong>r aga<strong>in</strong>st <strong>the</strong> protesters.<br />

A self-appo<strong>in</strong>ted group <strong>of</strong> prom<strong>in</strong>ent “wise men” stepped forward<br />

to negotiate a solution to <strong>the</strong> stand<strong>of</strong>f. Mubarak’s new vice president, former<br />

spy chief Omar Suleiman, made a public show <strong>of</strong> magnanimity by sitt<strong>in</strong>g<br />

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