The third Indian Everest Expedition wasspectacular in many ways. The scaling <strong>of</strong> Everestfour times in succession in 10 days was a featthat drew the world attention it richly deserved.The second team consisted <strong>of</strong> Sonam Gyatso <strong>and</strong>Sonam Wangyal, both IB <strong>of</strong>ficers. They were theoldest <strong>and</strong> the youngest climbers to have steppedon the summit together. Sonam Gyatso, duringthe climb, was frostbitten on his back. He wasin severe pain. But with determination <strong>and</strong> willpower, he reached the top.On 23 June, 1965, we returned to Delhi. Todemonstrate the nation’s gratitude, Acting PrimeMinister Gulzarilal N<strong>and</strong>a headed the receptionat the airport.Historic Reception at Palam AirportWorld’s Highest Intelligence OperationAs soon as the formalities <strong>of</strong> meeting the dignitariesat the Palam Airport were over, Sardar Balbir Singhwhispered into my ear, “Kohli, go <strong>and</strong> see RamjiKao behind the aircraft. He has a very importantmessage for you.” I quietly slipped away from thecrowd. Shri Kao, was at that time, Director ARC. Hewas very brief, “You are required to immediatelyproceed to the USA for a highly importantoperation. See me as soon as your hectic schedule<strong>of</strong> receptions is over.” A week later he told methe objective <strong>of</strong> the mission. I was asked to take ateam <strong>of</strong> strong Indian climbers with me <strong>and</strong> leada joint Indian-American expedition for trials onMount McKinley, the highest peak <strong>of</strong> USA.As far as the Indian climbers were concerned, therewas no problem. I straightaway selected SonamGyatso, Harish Rawat, Sonam Wangyal <strong>and</strong>Gurcharan Bhangu, all I.B. <strong>of</strong>ficers from our 1965Everest team. Devi Singh Sisodia <strong>and</strong> Dr. ‘Pedro’Tripathi, working in para-military organisations,were also added to the team. On the morning <strong>of</strong>19th July, we were at the international terminal atPalam. We were discreetly taken to the tarmac,after the rest <strong>of</strong> the passengers had boarded theAir-India flight. In New York, we were received bya CIA <strong>of</strong>ficial. The following day, after a lightning64The Indian <strong>Police</strong> Journal, October - December, 2012, Special Issue
tour <strong>of</strong> the White House <strong>and</strong> Lincoln Memorial, weflew to the Elmendorf Air Force Base in Alaska. OurAmerican counterparts included Barry Bishop. BillMcKniff, a senior CIA <strong>of</strong>ficer, was in charge <strong>of</strong> theAmerican side. He was <strong>of</strong> small built, extremelypolite, affable <strong>and</strong> a cheerful person. We instantlybecame friends.After trials on Mount McKinley, we returned toNew Delhi towards the middle <strong>of</strong> August. For me,the project was a major mountaineering challenge.The Americans had chosen Kanchenjunga, thethird highest peak in the world, for installing anuclear powered sensor. I vehemently opposedthis <strong>and</strong> recommended N<strong>and</strong>a Kot (22,510 ft).Finally, N<strong>and</strong>a Devi (25,645 ft.) was agreed as acompromise. Without wasting any time, we madefrantic preparations.Before the middle <strong>of</strong> September, we were at thebase camp <strong>of</strong> N<strong>and</strong>a Devi. The initial progress<strong>of</strong> our mission was fairly fast. Despite spells <strong>of</strong>bad weather, higher camps were established<strong>and</strong> stocked. On 7th October, America’s topnuclear scientist, Jim, broke the safety seals <strong>of</strong>the special box <strong>and</strong> peeled <strong>of</strong>f the top. Inside,seven radioactive plutonium rods were nestled inindividual glass cradles. With great dexterity, hedelicately pulled each one out <strong>and</strong> inserted it intothe generator. As soon as the loading was over,heat started emanating from the generator. Wewere now ready for the final act. Sherpas enjoyedcarrying the hot generator <strong>and</strong> named it ‘GuruRimpoche’!Bad LuckOn reaching Camp IV (23,700 ft), we ran into badluck. A severe blizzard stopped further progress.America’s best climber, Tom Frost, was not ableto acclimatise himself well <strong>and</strong> stayed below.The other two Americans, Lute Jerstad (AmericanEverester) <strong>and</strong> S<strong>and</strong>y, were able to reach betweenCamps III <strong>and</strong> IV, from where they slipped some300 feet in an avalanche, but fortunately stoppedshort <strong>of</strong> a crevice <strong>and</strong> survived. A party consisting<strong>of</strong> Rawat, both the Sonams <strong>and</strong> Sherpa SirdarPasang <strong>and</strong> Dawa Lama rushed essential suppliesfrom Camp II to Camp III <strong>and</strong> returned at 10.00p.m. under difficult <strong>and</strong> dangerous conditions.We, however, kept up the efforts, defying hostileweather conditions.On 13th October, when Bhangu reached CampIV along with his Sherpas, S<strong>and</strong>y <strong>and</strong> Lute Jerstadwere at Camp III. The generator was carried byBhangu to Camp IV. For the safety <strong>of</strong> the climberscarrying the generator, white-coloured radioactivitymeasuring plates were pinned on their chests. Incase <strong>of</strong> radioactivity exceeding minimum safetylevels, these plates would change colour. Thetransceivers (B1 <strong>and</strong> B2) were also carried, butthe power-pack, which was to be attached to thegenerator <strong>and</strong> which we believed was to convertthe nuclear energy into electrical energy, was keptbetween Camp III <strong>and</strong> Camp IV. Bhangu had donean excellent job. On the 1965 Everest Expedition,he was looking after communications. He nowproved to be a strong climber.On 16 October, 1965, under worsening weatherconditions <strong>and</strong> the end <strong>of</strong> the climbing season, Icalled <strong>of</strong>f the attempt. Bhangu <strong>and</strong> party carefullysecured the nuclear generator <strong>and</strong> other sensorequipments to the rocks, so that the following yearwe could pick them up <strong>and</strong> complete the mission.The Americans accompanying us were quitesatisfied with our decision to leave the device atCamp IV. After an exchange <strong>of</strong> messages withNew Delhi, the approval to leave the device atthat height in the mountains was conveyed to us.Operation RecoveryThe year 1966 was fully spent on ‘OperationRecovery’. After futile endeavours, the Americansdecided to bring in two legendary Huskies,rotary-wing aircrafts from NATO. They were theantithesis <strong>of</strong> aerodynamic beauty. On 16 August,the maiden flight <strong>of</strong> Huskie, with Bill Brewer <strong>of</strong>the CIA on board, attained a height <strong>of</strong> 22,500 feet.Reaching near Camp IV <strong>and</strong> keeping the planesteady, some canisters were tossed. Next day,search for the canisters began. Of the 12 canisters,10 were never found. At the site where twowere found, search was carried out without anysuccess. During the search operation, two ascents<strong>of</strong> N<strong>and</strong>a Devi were made. Gurcharan Bhanguaccompanied by Sherpa Tashi reached the summitin a heroic endeavour on 8th June. Later, on 20August, Rob Schaller made a daring solo ascent <strong>of</strong>the peak. During the year, Shri Mullick once withShri MML Hooja, made two visits to the N<strong>and</strong>aDevi Sanctuary for discussions.Since the search for the nuclear device on N<strong>and</strong>aDevi did not yield any result, the Americansaccepted my original proposal to set up themonitoring device on the Dome <strong>of</strong> N<strong>and</strong>a Kot ata height <strong>of</strong> nearly 22,000 feet, i.e. 500 feet belowthe summit. I had climbed this peak in 1959 <strong>and</strong>knew the route well. I was sure there would be noThe Indian <strong>Police</strong> Journal, October - December, 2012, Special Issue 65
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The Indian Police JournalOctober -
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From the Director’s DeskNew Delhi
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23rd December, 1887: TheJourney beg
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Courtesy - National Archives of Ind
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The Logo released on the completion
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Helmsmen of the IB during thePre-In
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SHRI V.G. VAIDYA, IPS(MAR 1992 TO J
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“Sleeman sahib ki jai”“No Cri
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their life and their problems relat
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Settling down of criminal tribes wa
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perish. Between 1841 and 1848, anot
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In conclusion, I would like to reco
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own race alone, had to be withdrawn
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