THE CONFERENCE PROCEEDINGS - IFEAT

INTRODUCTIONICATS INTERMEDIATE PERFUMERY WORKSHOPIFEAT CONFERENCE SINGAPORE 2012Dr. Tony CurtisICATS / Plymouth UniversityPlymouth Devon PL4 8AAt.curtis@plym.ac.ukThe Singapore workshop was built on the successful earlier ‘Introduction to Perfumery’ workshopsheld at the Montreal, Shanghai and Barcelona Conferences. The key feature of the intermediateworkshop was a chance to put the concepts into effect by delegates creating a muguet accord. Thetutorial team consisted of John Ayres (Pandora), Sharon Heard (ICATS) and Dr. Tony Curtis(ICATS). There were six presentations to lay the foundation for the afternoon’s practical work.ODOUR LANGUAGE, NATURAL AND SYNTHETIC INGREDIENTS AND THEIR ROLEIN FRAGRANCE FORMULATIONJohn Ayres opened the proceedings. Knowledge of natural and synthetic materials is central to ‘AromaTrades Studies’ and for the Creative Perfumer. The typical major creative perfumery house works with1,500 to 3,500 aroma ingredients with additional compounded bases. To use such a range of productsan odour classification scheme is required, a framework for an international odour language.Odour GroupCitrusMintGreenFruityMarineAgresticAldehydicConiferousFloralHerbaceousWoodySpicyMedicateMossyBalsamicAnimalicTypical example ingredientLemon OilPeppermint oilLeaf alcoholAldehyde C14 PeachCaloneGeosminAldehyde C11 undecylenicalpha TerpineolRose ottoLavender oilCedarwood oil VirginianClove bud oilEucalyptus oilOakmoss abs.Vanilla absoluteCivet absolute syntheticTable 1 Fragrance ingredients and odour groups315