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10 THE INDEX, Saturday, March 3, 1928<br />
E a r h j Signs O f S p r i n g<br />
What so important, when a season is waning, as a new cliapeau;<br />
Or new lootwear? Or anu up-to-tke minute accessory?<br />
bu Blanche Sears Emerson<br />
O N E of the most pathetic<br />
conditions of the between<br />
season time is the<br />
one that has to do with "trying<br />
to get along" until a new mode is<br />
seasonable. Yet the very best<br />
of us are inclined that way, f<strong>org</strong>etting<br />
the important fact that<br />
a hat less, or fewer details will<br />
not materially affect a wardrobe<br />
wholly new; while a smart new<br />
chapeau, or a pair of new shoes<br />
will smarten, not only one's wellworn<br />
wardrobe, but one's morale<br />
as well—especially, the hat! It<br />
will rouse one's interest in life<br />
as no other article of apparel can<br />
do, and it is no longer correct to<br />
wait until Easter for the smartening<br />
influence. Something new,<br />
to brighten up something old, is<br />
a duty, and when it happens, as<br />
this year, that the new models<br />
are exceptionally fetching, there<br />
isn't an excuse for refusing to<br />
do that duty.<br />
The new season will report<br />
progress in every way, whether<br />
it be in general, or special fashions.<br />
Practically every characteristic<br />
applicable to things in<br />
general is found in the new hats<br />
—many different fabrics and<br />
colors, or shades of them; a<br />
widely varying silhouette; clever<br />
manipulation of materials; and a<br />
diverse interpretation of the<br />
theme we have come to know as<br />
feminine. Always fashion is<br />
going somewhere, and it is with<br />
this trend that we have to do at<br />
any between-season time. We<br />
approach the subject with zest,<br />
for we like the road that fashion<br />
is traveling, for it is toward<br />
beauty, not away from it; and it<br />
finds expression, when it comes<br />
to millinery, in laces; in flowers;<br />
in intriguing wisps of veiling; in<br />
feathers and brushes and the<br />
many fine things that are used,<br />
with restraint, for trimming.<br />
The hat we buy right now will<br />
be a between-season affair, suitable<br />
to a season ending and another<br />
beginning. The new<br />
"shapes" make pliable fabrics<br />
imperative, for upon that quality<br />
the success of the designer depends.<br />
There are silks, especial<br />
ly grosgrain, that have this<br />
characteristic; and there are<br />
crepes, satins and felts, as well.<br />
Then there are certain straws<br />
that seem to be correct, either in<br />
combination, or as trimming for<br />
the other materials. But felt is,<br />
beyond every other material, important,<br />
for it is always correct,<br />
and, therefore, always safe. It<br />
may be one, two, or even three<br />
colors, in the modernistic way,<br />
or it may be combined with<br />
straw, the latter an unmistakeable<br />
Spring touch against a Winter<br />
background. This is a logical<br />
between-season combination.<br />
The straws that resemble<br />
linen are in demand, among<br />
them sisol and bakou important.<br />
And celophane, very glossy, is .<br />
used, sometimes trimmed with<br />
cire ribbon. It would seem that<br />
shiny effects, both in the hat<br />
and the trimming, are a new<br />
note. But it will be the lines of<br />
the new models that will intrigue<br />
us most, for they are, if<br />
ever lines were, broken! One<br />
hears talk of the "eye-brow" silhouette,<br />
seen in a roguish model<br />
with a pert little rabbit's ear<br />
over one eye. There are skull<br />
caps galore that twist and turn<br />
in intriguing ways, one with a<br />
twisted halo flange that is different.<br />
There is real ingenuity<br />
in the lower crown; in the hat<br />
moulded close to the head and<br />
cut away decisively over one<br />
eye; in brims rolled off the face<br />
in a lengthened front effect.<br />
There are some small felt hats<br />
that fit so closely that they resemble<br />
a bob! They are to be<br />
had in some very gay colors—<br />
fur coat hats, we call them.<br />
Then there are some adorable<br />
hats, designed for formal purposes,<br />
of feathers and flowers.<br />
One model, a skull cap affair, is<br />
made of tiny lacquered feather<br />
curls, sewn closely together—<br />
the result looks very like a<br />
shingled, but ringleted head.<br />
Still another hat, for afternoon<br />
tea, is made of flowers. It's<br />
close-fitting, too, and may be of<br />
violets, or, still newer, of primroses,<br />
and it will have a shoulder<br />
boutonniere to match. For evening<br />
wear there is a gleaming little<br />
cap made wholly of sequins,<br />
fitting snug to the head in lines<br />
that have been carefully shaped<br />
to the individual, and worn with<br />
a tulle scarf.<br />
Which leads, in the approved<br />
rhetorical form of unity, coherence<br />
and emphasis—to the subject<br />
of the scarf! We have been<br />
flirting, off and on, for many<br />
seasons, with this detail, and it<br />
is wholly in the spirit of the<br />
trend toward effects that are far<br />
removed from either boyishness<br />
or mannishness. But this season<br />
irnrn TCS2 .": 1<br />
the idea is incorporated into our<br />
fashions in several ways—as a<br />
detail of the garment itself, or<br />
as a separate accessory. Draperies<br />
and scarfs and capes and<br />
jabots—these are all details of a<br />
mode growing daily more intricate,<br />
and the fur-less coat, as<br />
well as many of the sports models<br />
in frocks and wraps, find the<br />
scarf collar a satisfactory style.<br />
Fluttering bits of material tell a<br />
story that is interesting reading.<br />
The separate scarf is a kerchief,<br />
either square or triangular,<br />
and it is most amazing what<br />
can be done with a piece of silk<br />
jfe^r<br />
HE New Mart of<br />
Fashions & Accessories<br />
for Women and Misses<br />
Read Our Important<br />
Announcement<br />
In Sunday Papers<br />
Kaufmann Loohu Co.<br />
\ BETWftN oth-AND 7th. STS. _X<br />
jf The Store of Individual Shops V<br />
^,627-629 PENN AVE./<br />
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