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10 THE INDEX, Saturday, January 14, 1928<br />

H T h e C o a t Fits!<br />

There is a faslaion lor evervj hour of tlie dau.<br />

There cfre appropriate details tor everij fashion.<br />

bu Blanche Sears Emerson<br />

T H E old adage that advised<br />

us so sagely—"If the coat<br />

fits, put it on," was not thinking<br />

of fashion. But it is a truth<br />

that should be considered in respect<br />

to our appareling, if we<br />

would be properly groomed and<br />

clad. And it has to do, not with<br />

the fit of the coat alone, but of<br />

every garment that we wear. It<br />

has to do with appropriateness,<br />

as well as fit. It is a comprehensive<br />

rule, but its very breadth<br />

makes it important. Let us see!<br />

Every woman who is interested<br />

in dress is interested in finding<br />

the one frock, or suit, or hat<br />

that is, for her, the most appropriate.<br />

And that means becomingness<br />

to the woman herself,<br />

and correctness to place and occasion.<br />

And trite as it may<br />

seem, it always seems to center<br />

around the problem of size, first<br />

of all.<br />

There are so very many fashions,<br />

the major portion of which<br />

may be worn by the woman who<br />

is slender. But the choice of a<br />

garment is limited by so many<br />

fashions, the major portion of<br />

which may be worn by the woman<br />

who is slender. But the choice<br />

of a garment is limited by so<br />

many "Don'ts," when a woman<br />

is large, that a general discussion<br />

is bound to dwell upon<br />

them. Yet—the slender woman<br />

can make fatal mistakes in spite<br />

of her breadth of choice. There<br />

are "coats" that do not fit her<br />

any more than they fit the<br />

woman of ample proportions.<br />

And we have to decide so many<br />

things! Lines, materials and<br />

colors for our suits and frocks<br />

and coats; height of crown and<br />

width of brim and color for outhats;<br />

the width of the last and<br />

the shape of the toe and the<br />

type of model for our shoes; the<br />

length of our necklace, the<br />

stones and the color; these are<br />

but a few of the problems that<br />

we have to solve.<br />

Then—there is the relation of<br />

each part of the whole—the<br />

most important decision in the<br />

group of many decisions. In<br />

spite of its having been said<br />

many times, we say it again—<br />

no costume should meet the gaze<br />

of the public until it has been<br />

studied, front, back and sides,<br />

before a full-length mirror, and<br />

a three-way mirror, if possible.<br />

Many a woman's day has been<br />

completely ruined by a chance<br />

glimpse of herself at an angle<br />

she has not, hitherto, considered.<br />

Our fashions are too radical<br />

to be carelessly chosen; they<br />

demand careful study. Assuming<br />

that the corset has been<br />

carefully and expertly fitted, we<br />

proceed to lines, materials and<br />

colors—the background of every<br />

mode.<br />

The old rule of color has been<br />

somewhat modified. True, we<br />

know that the butterfly is<br />

clothed in brilliance, and the<br />

humming-bird, as well. We<br />

know, too, that when nature<br />

clothed the elephant, the color<br />

choice was taupe. But we have<br />

been the subjects of experimentation<br />

through a succession of<br />

seasons, and that experimentation<br />

has resulted in a new attitude<br />

toward color. Skilfully and<br />

judiciously used, it is made an<br />

accent in the costume of the<br />

woman who wears a forty-eight<br />

size. Then, too, she has the aid<br />

of accessories, which may provide<br />

the color. Every woman,<br />

whether slender or plump, must<br />

watch her colors. They are not<br />

the same in daylight and under<br />

artificial light; even two articles<br />

that seem to match in the sunshine<br />

become very bad friends<br />

when the lamps are lighted.<br />

Fabrics are soft and pliable,<br />

and this characteristic benefits<br />

us all. But the large woman<br />

should avoid shiny surfaces and<br />

stiffness of material—for her<br />

the reverse of the crepe-backed<br />

satin, but trimmed with the<br />

satin side. Dull crepes and silks<br />

that show a surface that is not<br />

shiny; allover patterns in a<br />

small design, and any boldness<br />

cleverly veiled; lines of color,<br />

running in the right direction;<br />

the large woman should follow<br />

these three rules. The slender<br />

woman can wear taffetas and<br />

satins and moire silks. For her<br />

there is beauty in the robe de<br />

W o m e n ' s Industrial<br />

Exchange<br />

THOROUGHLY REDECORATED<br />

Is a vertj pleasant place to nave vjour breakfast,<br />

luncheon, tea and do uour gift buuing<br />

LUNCHEONETTE<br />

Famous lor its home cooking ana delicious pastries. Outing<br />

boxes and individual lunches packed to the desire and<br />

taste of the purchaser.<br />

ART and NEEDLEWORK<br />

Rare choice gifts, children's clothes, made-to-order tailorin<br />

novelties, lamp shades and painted furniture.<br />

433 Penn Avenue Pittsburgh, Pa.<br />

General Office Atlantic 4582<br />

TELEPHONES<br />

Edible Department Atlantic 5084<br />

Art and Needlework Department Atlantic 4586

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