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hand were concealed from the<br />
left, the one representing the<br />
tailored; the other the new feminine,<br />
formal fashions. The former<br />
is represented as softer,<br />
more insouciant than in former<br />
years; the latter a flying, fluttering,<br />
swinging mode, when in motion—everything<br />
expressive of<br />
movement; but smartly slender,<br />
when at rest. A two-way success,<br />
this newest expression of<br />
feminine formality.<br />
Distinction is paramount in<br />
the new models. All through<br />
the Winter months we have been<br />
hearing rumors of the lengths<br />
to which this new femininity<br />
would carry us. We were dazed<br />
with the possibilities of anklelength<br />
skirts; long hair; the<br />
normal waistline. And what is<br />
the result? Skirts are anklelength—s<br />
o m e t i m e s, and in<br />
places; but when they go to<br />
these extremes it is only in passing,<br />
for they rise to a smart<br />
shortness in other places. Hair<br />
is longer, but only a matter of<br />
the inches necessary to permit<br />
of waving—feminine fashions<br />
call for the softness of the wave,<br />
rather than the sleek smoothness<br />
of the boyish bob. The normal<br />
waistline is suggested, but<br />
since few wear it becomingly, it<br />
is just that—a suggestion. But<br />
all three mark the trend.<br />
Contributing a generous share<br />
to this new idea, we have fabrics<br />
and colors. They are neither<br />
subordinated to the general<br />
mode, nor do they subordinate<br />
it. Soft, supple, of marvellously<br />
fine textures, they do all that is<br />
asked of them, yet leave the impression<br />
that they could do yet<br />
more. They are sheer, in many<br />
instances, and when they are<br />
not, they are light of weight—<br />
the new basket-weave tweeds,<br />
for example. Similar characteristics<br />
make combinations of fabrics<br />
possible, and this is one of<br />
the real stand-bys of the designer.<br />
Add to the beauty of fabrics<br />
the wonderful color range, and<br />
there seems but little left to demand.<br />
There are some wondrous<br />
clear tones on the Spring color<br />
card — blues that surprise;<br />
greens, purples and reds, the<br />
same.<br />
After several seasons of a<br />
theme, we come to feel that it<br />
has reached the height of its<br />
possibilities. The exploitation of<br />
the ensemble idea has covered<br />
several years, at least, yet this<br />
coming season it is listed as one<br />
of the most important ideas in<br />
the new mode. It reaches out to<br />
the smallest item of the costume,<br />
making the detail that is<br />
lovely in itself, but inharmoni<br />
ous, an impossibility. It has<br />
opened new departments in the<br />
shops where one may find, from<br />
day to day, intriguing new<br />
things to smarten the old, or the<br />
new, costume. But we are, at<br />
the outset, interested in the ensemble<br />
itself—the fundamentals<br />
of coat and skirt or coat and<br />
frock, though more often than<br />
not the latter simulates the skirt<br />
with its accompanying and contrasting<br />
blouse.<br />
In its original form the "suit"<br />
was an affair of one material,<br />
worn with blouses—one recalls<br />
M o n e y Takes Wings<br />
THE INDEX, Saturday, April 7, 1928 11<br />
the "shirt-waist," perhaps. Then<br />
there was the idea of matching<br />
the frock and the lining of the<br />
coat, the latter a solid color that<br />
was harmonious with the former.<br />
Later, we became subtle,<br />
and a bit of trimming or a touch<br />
of color linked coat and dress. Of<br />
late the tendency has been to<br />
match the two in both color and<br />
(Continued on Page 15)<br />
FEW who are left the proceeds of life insurance in cash<br />
invest it wisely or keep it long. The temptation is to<br />
spend it quickly. That is why so many women and children<br />
lor whom life insurance was purchased as a protection<br />
find within a few years that the money has taken wings<br />
and flown away.<br />
The wise plan in buying life insurance is to create a Trust<br />
to receive the proceeds of policies in order that tin estate<br />
may be carefully invested and conserved for the real protection<br />
ot those for whom it is intended.<br />
Our Trust Officers will be pleased to give full particulars<br />
regarding Life Insurance Trusts, small or large.<br />
Free booklet "Solving The Problems That Confront Your<br />
Estate."<br />
T h e U n i o n T r u s t C o m p a n y<br />
o f P i t t s b u r g h<br />
FIFTH. GRANT. OLIVER AND WILLIAM PENN PLACE