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Yet—it is rather nice to have a
coat, say of the raglan variety,
for wear over one's costume on
occasions—it can do duty with
the riding habit; for travel; for
any number of general occasions;
and it will be a single
garment quite apart from the
ensemble coat. Into the general
tailored mode certain afternoon
fabrics have made their way—
satin, crepe, Georgette and the
silks that tailor well. One and
two-piece dresses of these materials
are the logical accompaniment
to the tailored coat
which may be in the same color;
a darker shade or in contrast—
which brings us to printed silks.
If one were to check up on the
new ensemble costumes displayed
throughout this country
on Easter morning, there would
probably be two to every one—
printed silk to plain—when it
comes to the frock of the outfit.
After trying out every possible
combination, in the ensemble,
from an exact match of coat and
dress to the costume that subtly
identifies the one with the other,
fashion gave up her experiments
and gave designers carte blanche
to do any thing they pleased. Result
— exact matches; subtle
trimming links; contrasts between
dress and coat, with a
touch of the dress fabric on the
coat or vice versa; in fact, a
wide variety from which one can
choose. As is always the case
some one idea is featured more
than others—and this season it
is the printed-plain combination.
Spring not only brings printed
fabrics, each year, but it brings
new designs in these prints and
adds new materials to the list
that takes this type of decoration.
Each year we say that the
offerings are lovelier than they
have ever been, and the next
year we find further progress
along the path to beauty. So it
is not strange that this new
mode of femininity and charm
should find a new glory in these
effective fabrics. A plain coat—
that is, a coat in a solid color, is
worn with a frock of printed
silk, and the former is lined with
the latter, in many of the
models. Or there may be a scarf
tie of the dress material on the
coat; or a cape lined with it.
And probably there are more
polka dotted patterns than any
other in the print display.
This vogue extends through
the daytime or tailored ensemble
to the formal costume for afternoon
uses. The coat will be silk
--moire specially smart—and
the frock will be Georgette or
chiffon; and it will develop that
patterns for these fabrics are
different from those used on the
heavier materials. It is something
of a coincidence that while
we are talking of pliability in
fabrics, the stiffer silks are being
featured. In evening attire
we have the model of sheer softness
and the one that has bouffant
lines, made of a material
with "body" to it. It all goes to
prove that designers are not letting
anything that is really
beautiful slip through their
fingers, and there is certainly
room for everything in a mode
that must be adapted to so many
purposes.
Just how great a change has
taken place in the silhouette we
can prove with a comparison.
Last year's frock, set opposite
tliis year's model, will have less
of grace and softness than the
latter. There will be, perhaps,
more material in the skirt, but
there will not be as great a
width. The waistline of this
,\ ear's dress will be higher, and
there will be indications of a
bodice, rather than a blouse.
These details are enough in
themselves to confirm one's suspicions,
but a visit to a corsetiere
will bring further proof.
There are new lines in the approved
garments, and one instantly
suspects that if the
trend that we have noted continues
farther, there will be a
new necessity arise. Everyone
will have to wear some sort of
a corset, for .curves will be
definitely in style.
Altogether there is grace,
softness, elegance, femininity
and striking beauty in the
models that Easter will bringout.
And what is, in a way, far
more important, is the fact that
there is an almost unlimited variety.
Fundamentals may be
practically the same for youth,
the young matron and the dowager;
but their application will
be more reasonable; more in
keeping with the one concerned.
And there will be separate types
for different activities, as there
should be. No longer will the
sports suit see us through the
entire day from morning shopping
trip to afternoon tea; it
will be a sports suit, and nothing
more. And who shall say
that a new zest will not be added
to life by this change; we readily
admit that the philosophy of
clothes is a cure for many ills.
Just what is really new, in
this mode that we are accepting?
(One always uses the word
"new" with reservations, for
practically everything in fashion
has been tried out before, and
many of our newest features are
but revivals.) Princesse lines
and the irregular hemline, the
latter leading us onward to a
somewhat longer skirt; capes, in
themselves a revival, but applied
in ways that are entirely new;
the higher waistline—it is rarely
lower than the top of the
hips; these are features first
noticed, for they are prophetic.
We are impressed by the generous
use of flounces, tiers, drapes
and swinging panels, which may
be broadened in its meaning to
include the jabot, scarf, cape and
any number of combinations
that are neither one or the other.
We are, briefly, impressed with
details.
Broken lines predominate, not
only in frocks, but in coats; even
in hats. Everything that we
THE INDEX, Saturday, March 24, 1928
consider has a wealth of detail
that is amazing, although its appearance
is always one of simplicity.
And it proves how great
is the art of the maker that we
are not impressed with anything
but that simplicity, when an ennumeration
of these many details
would lead one to suspect
that fussiness would result.
Each little part of the costume
is a perfect part, and it must not
lose its perfection by subordination
; yet—it must not call attention
to itself. The springmode,
as we shall see it Easter
morning, is fraught with possibilities
of great beauty, becomingness
and appropriateness.
But it is not to be trifled with
in any of its details. Care in
selection is imperative.
To Be More
Attractive
Wear Dress
Clothes
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