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Walker - 1967 - A geography of Italy

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PART i n : REGIONAL GEOGRAPHY<br />

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which the whole peninsula was subjected in the post-Pliocene and which was<br />

accompanied by vulcanicity throughout the Anti-Apennines, revealed wide<br />

expanses <strong>of</strong> Pliocene clays and sands sometimes to heights o f over 8oom. They<br />

occur widely in that part o f the Tuscan uplands drained by the Era, Elsa and<br />

Pesa, where the overlying sands have been extensively preserved, and in the<br />

valleys o f the Orcia, Arbia and upper Ombrone further south where clays and<br />

marls predominate. These Pliocene sediments, which also occupy much <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Val di Chiana, have been moulded by erosion into a sea <strong>of</strong> hills whose morphology<br />

varies locally in response to minor structural peculiarities. In general the permeability<br />

o f the sands gives them greater resistance than the clays so that tabular<br />

forms are not vmusual and the valleys tend to be narrower and more steep-sided;<br />

occasionally, as in the halze <strong>of</strong> Volterra, the sandy plateaus end abruptly in precipitous<br />

cliffs. The clays favour a rolling landscape o f gently rounded hills <strong>of</strong>ten<br />

gullied in their lower slopes; the marls o f the Crete Senesi, whose surface is in a<br />

state o f continuous disintegration, present many o f the features associated with<br />

badland.<br />

Since the Mesozoic ‘Tuscany’ has been the scene o f repeated earth-movements,<br />

tangential at first and later radial, and these have been associated with successive<br />

volcanic phases. Deep-seated intrusions have been exposed in the granites <strong>of</strong><br />

Elba (M. Capanne), Giglio and Montecristo and they have contributed to the<br />

metamorphism and mineralization o f the Colline Metallifere. Topographically<br />

the most obvious product o f vulcanicity is the Pliocene cone <strong>of</strong> M . Amiata; like<br />

M . Calvi and Capraia it is mainly trachytic. At present volcanic activity is confined<br />

to those phenomena associated with decadence, notably thermal springs<br />

and s<strong>of</strong>fionv, the former support several spas (Montecatini, Chianciano, Bagni di<br />

Lucca) and the latter, besides providing borax, are used to generate thermal<br />

electricity at Lardarello in the Cecina valley.<br />

Throughout the Tuscan uplands mezzadria is the commonest form <strong>of</strong> operation<br />

and there is a high degree o f dispersed settlement. T he poderi vary in size<br />

from about 5 to 15 hectares in the north where sands predominate to about 15 to<br />

30 hectares in the less intensive clay zones further south. The landowner’s home<br />

farm (fattorid), usually set on a hill, is easily distinguished by its size and outbuildings<br />

from the more modest farmsteads o f the mezzadri. The Tuscan upland<br />

is dotted with little towns, almost invariably perched defensively on a hill or<br />

plateau, each o f which has provided at least a footnote in the colourful pages <strong>of</strong><br />

Italian Medieval and Renaissance history, and many can claim a place in the<br />

broader tapestry o f European art. Siena (61,000) is the only sizeable town on the<br />

Tuscan plateau; it has agricultural processing and craft industries but, like its<br />

ancient rival Florence, it leans heavily on tourism. The same can be said <strong>of</strong><br />

Arezzo (75,000), the largest o f several towns flanking the Val di Chiana.<br />

As its valley widens below Pontassieve the Am o passes successively through<br />

three lowlands separated by M . Alburno and M . Pisano. The alluvial and<br />

lacustrine deposits flooring the Florence and Fucecchio basins were not satis-<br />

166

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