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Walker - 1967 - A geography of Italy

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PART I I : SOME P H YSIC A L GEOGRAPHY<br />

^.'■ 7 •<br />

is discouraged by the föhn and may be eliminated altogether (the upper Valtellina).<br />

Without any clearly defined break the beech stratiun merges into the<br />

conifers among which the noble red fir, with its reddish bark and long tight cones,<br />

is a favourite with the forestry authorities. It shelters an undergrowth which<br />

includes m3rrtles, rhododendrons, heather and a variety o f edible fungi. The<br />

hardier larch is content with less favourable situations on northern slopes or<br />

rocky ground. Although a conifer, it is not an evergreen; the shedding o f its<br />

needles no doubt reduces the transpiration loss and enables it to struggle on in<br />

insolation well beyond the limit o f the forests proper. It is sometimes accompanied<br />

by the Pinus cembra whose survival is threatened because o f the popularity<br />

o f its seeds with forest fauna. In the more continental Alpine interior the Pinus<br />

sylvestris occupies exposed stony slopes where evaporation and the percolation<br />

o f water defeat most other conifers.<br />

Between 1900m and 2100m the habitat deteriorates and the forest thins out.<br />

Only those trees and shrubs which can dispense with the protection o f their<br />

fellows survive; six or seven months o f snow, a short growing period, fiierce<br />

temperature fluctuations at ground level, strong desiccating winds and a soil<br />

composed o f little but scree are all elements o f this daimting environment.<br />

Among patchy thickets composed o f contorted mountain pines (P. montana),<br />

junipers, rhododendrons, myrtles and alders (Alnus viridis) only the larch, the<br />

pioneer o f the forest, stands erect; the rest cower over the rocks to escape<br />

the wind and conserve warmth and moisture. Further up across the scree to the<br />

permanent snowline only the humble Alpines survive; their long roots, hairy<br />

leaves and cushion-like form help them to withstand violent temperature fluctuations<br />

and excessive loss o f moisture.<br />

THE VALLE PAD ANA. O f the vast forest o f the Valle Padana (Cisalpine Gaul<br />

to the Roman colonists under whose axes it first began to retreat extensively)<br />

practically nothing remains; the last sizeable remnant, the oaks o f Montello, so<br />

long protected by the conservationist legislation o f the Venetian Republic, disappeared<br />

in the 1890s. A reconstruction would probably reveal oaks(2 . robur and<br />

Q.petraed) spreading down from the piedmont and dominant over most <strong>of</strong> the<br />

plain. In response to local drainage conditions they would be associated with the<br />

elm, ash, willow, alder and poplar. On the higher morainic arcs o f Piedmont,<br />

especially where ferretto has rendered the crystalline detritus more impermeable,<br />

a few stands o f chestnut and beech have survived, but this habitat is also proving<br />

attractive to that vigorous foreigner the robinia.<br />

Along the northern margin o f the plain, the fans o f very coarse fluvio-glacial<br />

debris support a heath vegetation known generally as brughiere and locally in<br />

Piedmont as vaude or baragge. Heather, gorse, silver birch and the Pinus<br />

sylvestris are characteristic, this last the straggling rearguard o f a post-glacial<br />

retreat. Traditionally the summer grazing grounds o f transhumant flocks, which<br />

have contributed to the degradation o f the vegetation, the brughiere have dwindled<br />

66

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