20 TRAJES 20 VESTITS 20 DESIGNS

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14 A TOWER OF BABEL FOR THE SENSES CONCHA HERNÁNDEZ / Curator, 20 Designs: dialogues between fashion and literature 20 Designs: dialogues between fashion and literature is an exhibition with a mission to bring together two worlds that have never been far apart: those of fashion and literature. A dynamic, constantly-evolving display that fits the immediate, here-and-now nature of fashion whilst retaining the same source of inspiration: works of literature. After its time in Tokyo, Beijing, Istanbul, Milan, Brussels, Budapest, Madrid and Moscow, the exhibition has expanded its content by incorporating some of the greatest names in Russian letters. 20 Designs is now open at the Roca Barcelona Gallery, having previously been in Moscow as part of the 2011, Year of Russia and Spain event. The selected authors –with a special tribute being paid to Spain’s best-known writer, Miguel de Cervantes– have been honoured with the top awards in Spanish letters including, amongst others, the National, the Prince of Asturias and the Queen Sofía Poetry Prizes. Furthermore, the two Latin American authors included, Mario Vargas Llosa and Gabriel García Márquez, are both winners of the Nobel Prize in Literature. Lastly, Lev Tolstói, Ana Ajmátova, Marina Tsvetáyeva, Nikolái Gógol and Antón Chéjov are the five Russian authors featured in the exhibition. All the outfits have been made by designers belonging to the Association of Spanish Fashion Creators. Devota & Lomba, Agatha Ruíz de la Prada, Loewe, Victorio & Lucchino, Ailanto, Jesús del Pozo, Hannibal Laguna, Miguel Palacio, Miriam Ocáriz, Davidelfin, Amaya Arzuaga, Roberto Torretta, Lydia Delgado, Custo Barcelona, Ana Locking, Duyos, Ángel Schlesser, Lemoniez, Roberto Verino and Juanjo Oliva present their creations inspired by extracts from literary works. In selecting these works, we have sought to embrace different literary genres, with a special emphasis on powerful women characters. The exhibition’s focus is on two timeless characters. The first, multi-faceted and unreal, is Dulcinea, created by Spain’s most famous writer, Miguel de Cervantes, and dressed by Loewe. The other, Anna Karenina, suffused with sensuality and realism, springs from the imagination of one of Russia’s greatest authors, Lev Tolstói, and is dressed by Duyos. Exactly the same treatment has been given to two great poets, leading examples of a shared aesthetic: Olvido García Valdés and José Ángel Valente, as dressed by Ana Locking and Hannibal Laguna, respectively. Also present are two key figures of 20th-century Russian poetry, two women who reached a peak of creativity despite the
times they had to live in: Marina Tsvetáyeva and Anna Ajmátova. The beauty of the poems of these two women, favoured by songwriters and other keen observers of the trials, tribulations and joys of living on one and the other side of the world, will be clothed by Juanjo Oliva and Roberto Verino. For his part, Anton Chekhov establishes ties with the great writers of the Spanish-language literature that appeared in the Americas, including the most recent Nobel Prize in Literature winner Mario Vargas Llosa, whose character Urania, from The Feast of the Goat, is dressed by Agatha Ruíz de la Prada and surrounded by the creations of Devota & Lomba, Lemoniez, Victorio & Lucchino and Jesús del Pozo. Lastly, the poetry of Antonio Gamoneda, dressed by Davidelfín, and the “woman soldier” from Olvidado Rey Gudú, by Spain’s recent Cervantes Prize winner Ana María Matute, form the starting point of a gallery of contrasting, powerful female characters: Antonio Muñoz Molina’s Carlota Fainberg, Carmen Martín Gaite’s Snow Queen, María Zambrano’s “La Loca” and the unforgettable Natàlia from Mercè Rodoreda’s The Time of the Doves, in outfits designed by Roberto Torretta, Miguel Palacio, Amaya Arzuaga, Custo Barcelona, and more. Underlying this creative display is the completely human science of Nikolái Gógol’s Nevsky Prospect, dressed Angel Schlesser. For writers, providing a description of the way their characters are dressed has always been a way of placing the reader and the action at a specific point in time: and time is regarded by many as the cornerstone of fashion. Writers and intellectuals alike have used this device more often than we might imagine. A list might be headed by Miguel de Cervantes, closely followed by Marcel Proust, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Nikolái Gógol and a number of the authors featured in this exhibition. For fashion designers, the idea of clothing quotes from great works of literature has given a new boost to their creative process. It was Mallarmé who said that fashion is the goddess of appearance. However, it is also a cultural phenomenon that gives us an insight into the ideas of the world at a particular point in history, and the psychology of people as manifested by their dress. Fashion tells us of the past and projects us into the future. The way we dress –this mark of civilisation, this integral and indissoluble part of that which we call culture– becomes something more than a second skin. Having outgrown the traditional categorisation of the arts, imposed from the times of Aristotle to the present day, we are now witnessing a dispersion of languages and a multiplicity of media, and fashion bursting out with its own, immediate character, benefitting from the consolidated democratisation it has enjoyed ever since the invention of the prêt à porter concept. Dressing a poem, a character, the magic of that vague moment that only literature gives us: this is what 20 Designs is all about. It is an aesthetic experience, a place where one group, as creators, exists alongside the other, as inspirers of literary characters. Latin American authors that Spain has adopted as their own, and Russian authors to whom we always return in admiration, as they broaden our cultural horizons and increase our ability to understand the human condition. A shared language and a boundless phraseology of shapes and colours. And, lastly, poetry pouring out a splendour that is timeless and placeless. Poetry as the ultimate refinement of language, the deepest place, the essence of the word and that which, in the end, gives the greatest freedom to the creator. And, above all (or ranking with it), the clothes, directly inspired by a literary quote. All of them help us to enjoy and take pleasure in an exhibition that invites us to find out more about our designers and writers. An exhibition that becomes an example of intercultural dialogue, a Tower of Babel for the senses. After all, their sheltering sky is one and the same.
Page 1: DIÀLEGS ENTRE MODA I LITERATURA DI
Page 6 and 7: 6 La creativitat és el nexe que un
Page 9 and 10: 10 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36
Page 11 and 12: dones, reivindicades per cançonair
Page 13: Tsvetáyeva y Ana Ajmátova. La her
Page 17 and 18: Don Quixot de la Manxa (Primera Par
Page 19 and 20: Anna Karénina /... un reflector, c
Page 21 and 22: La dona de Lot La dona de Lot, que
Page 23 and 24: Latitud No vull res més que estar
Page 25 and 26: Aquesta arna que voleteja davant me
Page 27 and 28: Musa Ni cartes, ni avantpassats, ni
Page 29 and 30: El professor de rus /... El sol de
Page 31 and 32: Cent anys de solitud /... Aleshores
Page 33 and 34: La Festa del Boc AGATHA RUIZ DE LA
Page 35 and 36: Els anys amb Laura Díaz /... La ve
Page 37 and 38: Sols a Mara sempre Sota del doble s
Page 39 and 40: Exempts II Aquí la boca, la seva b
Page 41 and 42: Oblidat Rei Gudú /...A soles amb G
Page 43 and 44: Cinc hores amb Mario /... Però, tu
Page 45 and 46: La Plaça del Diamant /... I ens va
Page 47 and 48: La Reina de la Neu /... Finalment,
Page 49 and 50: Carlota Fainberg /... Cap dona que
Page 51 and 52: Deliri i destí LA BOJA /... I ho h
Page 53 and 54: Barri de Meravelles /... - Mamà, t
Page 55 and 56: Contes de Peterburg LA PERSPECTIVA
Page 57 and 58: d’accessoris de l’any 2006, s
Page 59 and 60: Her early works are included in the
Page 61 and 62: colectivos: Perdidas en el espacio.
Page 63 and 64: ompen los corazones», explicaba el
Page 65 and 66:
mentiras, ensayos literarios (1990)
Page 67 and 68:
por un tono político de denuncia.
Page 69 and 70:
Prize and National Literature Prize
Page 71 and 72:
Clarisme, where she worked from Oct
Page 73 and 74:
idiomas. La obra de Muñoz Molina t
Page 75 and 76:
En 1959 la Fundación Guggenheim le
Page 77 and 78:
MIGUEL DE CERVANTES / Don Quixot de
Page 79 and 80:
ROCA Equip de Comunicació de Roca
Page 81 and 82:
Roca Barcelona Gallery és el prime
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Joan Güell, 211-213 08028 Barcelon
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20 TRAJES 20 VESTITS 20 DESIGNS

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