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10 L. Bergdahl et al.<br />

2.4 Wave Kinematics<br />

The wave kinematics can be realized to second order for weakly non-linear<br />

waves in deep and shallow water. Equation (2.2) and (2.3) give the first and<br />

second order contributions. F (n) are the first-order component amplitudes, ωn<br />

the angular frequencies and kn the wave numbers. H(ωn, ωm) is a quadratic<br />

transfer function. For details see [7].<br />

1η(x, t) =<br />

N�<br />

F (m) exp i(ωmt − kmx) (2.2)<br />

m=0<br />

N� N� F (n)F (m)<br />

2η(x, t) =<br />

H(ωn,ωm)expi[(ωn + ωm)t − (kn + km)x]<br />

4g<br />

n=0 m=0<br />

(2.3)<br />

The equations are valid to the mean water elevation and have to be extrapolated<br />

to the instantaneous water surface.<br />

2.5 Example of Wave Loads<br />

In Figs. 2.3 and 2.4 comparisons of linear (1st order) and non-linear (1st+2nd<br />

order) realizations of forces and moments are shown [4]. For these high waves<br />

Force (10 3 N)<br />

150<br />

100<br />

50<br />

0<br />

−50<br />

−100<br />

1900<br />

Force, comparison between linear and non-linear realisation<br />

1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960<br />

Time (s)<br />

Linear<br />

Non-linear<br />

1970 1980 1990 2000<br />

Fig. 2.3. Comparison of linear and non-linear force

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