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Aphoristic Writings, Notebook, and Letters to a Friend, by Otto ...

Aphoristic Writings, Notebook, and Letters to a Friend, by Otto ...

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Syracuse, 3rd August, 1903<br />

Instead of waiting for a long time in Ancona for a ship, I have travelled here via<br />

Rome, Naples, Messina, Taormina (one of the most beautiful places on earth), <strong>and</strong><br />

Catania (Etna).<br />

In Rome I heard Il Trova<strong>to</strong>re, which contains the most splendid portrayal of heartbeats,<br />

<strong>and</strong> I am more than ever of the opinion that Verdi was a genius. Two nights<br />

ago, in a magical place on the beach <strong>by</strong> the moonlit, Ionic sea, between the papyrus<br />

grove of the Arethus spring <strong>and</strong> the sailing ships of the harbour, I heard the Corso<br />

military b<strong>and</strong> play the cavalleria rusticana.<br />

At the time he wrote that, Mascagni was great. I have now seen the whole area in<br />

which it takes place, went <strong>to</strong> Francofonte not far away, <strong>and</strong> was very pleased <strong>by</strong> how<br />

accurately I had pictured it: the fairest grain (la cirāsa). It is the most fertile region of<br />

Europe. I have sought <strong>and</strong> found a wealth of information about the Sicilian peasant<br />

duels, <strong>and</strong> enjoyed instruction about the art itself from a goatherd, who blew earnestly<br />

<strong>and</strong> truly on his self-carved syrinx – nevertheless, <strong>and</strong> certainly very badly, a melody<br />

from The Barber of Seville, which did not suit the place in the least. – But do not envy<br />

me <strong>to</strong>o greatly if what I have written you should also fill you with longing.<br />

Syracuse is the most singular place in the world. I can only be born here or die –<br />

not live.<br />

On Etna, it was the imposing shamelessness of the crater which gave me the most<br />

<strong>to</strong> think about. A crater reminds one of a m<strong>and</strong>rill’s behind.<br />

Nevertheless, write me about yourself <strong>and</strong> what you are doing, you've promised<br />

<strong>and</strong> till now not held it.<br />

I can only highly recommend the pursuit of Beethoven <strong>to</strong> you. He is the absolute<br />

opposite of Shakespeare, <strong>and</strong> Shakespeare or being like Shakespeare is something,<br />

which I see ever clearer, that every great person must, <strong>and</strong> does, overcome. With<br />

Shakespeare the world has no centre, with Beethoven it has one. – - -<br />

So, I await news from Probus Court! And give my regards <strong>to</strong> Schiffmann also!<br />

*<br />

Ot<strong>to</strong>.<br />

89

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