Hydraulic ram pumps and Sling Pumps

Appendix I: Methods for Grouting Casing●●●●layer. This helps ensure that there is a complete seal at the bottomof the casing.Then use several shovel full of dirt to plug-off the ditch leadingfrom the borehole to the mud pits.If water is leaking out of the plumbing joints and/or drilling mudis draining back down into the annulus, then cement is leakingback up the casing. Tighten joints to reduce leakage. While someleakage is not desirable, it is not a crisis either... it will merelyrequire the drilling out of a little extra cement.Wait 24 hours before you start to drill inside the casing. If indoubt, wait longer rather than shorter. If you start drilling and findthat the cement is not set-up, wait another 12 hours.Drill-out the cement using a 10.16 cm (4 in) roller bit.Wiper Plug MethodIf for some reason the Modified Halliburton Wiper Plug Methoddescribed above will not work, consider the following method whichuses a plug to push the grout down into the casing and up the annularspace:●●●●●●Take 1 or 2 empty cement sacks and wad them into a tight ball.Once the measured volume of grout is placed in the casing, insertthe cement sack ball (the "wiper plug") in the casing.Use drill pipe to slowly force the wiper plug down the casing untilit is just above the bottom of the casing.Use several shovels full of dirt to plug-off the ditch leading fromthe borehole to the mud pits.Leave the drill pipe in-place for 1-2 hours to let the cement setenough so that it wouldn't come back up the casing when the drillpipe is removed.Do not leave the drill pipe in the casing for an extended period oftime. If you do and some cement leaks back through or around thehttp://www.lifewater.ca/Appendix_I.htm (4 of 6) [1/13/2005 12:45:29 PM]