Horticulture Principles and Practices

26.3.1 COLLECTING BONSAI PLANTS FROM NATURE
The Japanese name for collecting ready-made bonsai from natural surroundings is called
Yamadori. The natural bonsai is called Yamadori shitate. These specimens have the
advantage of having been molded by the elements (weather-beaten) and usually exhibit
some of the features, such as twisted branches, stunting, and aging, that are artificially
induced when bonsai are created from scratch. However, should the plant not be perfect,
it is difficult to remold it to conform to an acceptable style. Old specimens are not
flexible and do not readily submit to twisting and bending without damage.
The best environment under which bonsai material can be collected is one that is
harsh (poor to marginal nutrition, shallow soil, unseasonable temperature, and windy
conditions). Plants under such conditions do not grow normally and may be stunted and
possibly deformed. When such a plant is found, it should be dug up and transplanted in
the dormant period. It is important to dig up (rather than pull) all of the roots including
a ball of soil. Some root or shoot pruning may be required before transplanting.
26.3.2 GROWING PLANTS FOR BONSAI
Starting from Seed
Starting from seed is a slow process, requiring several years to obtain a plant of decent size
that can be trained. Seeds may be collected from the wild or purchased from a nursery.
Seeds differ in preplanting preparation, some requiring soaking and others stratification.
Using the Vegetative Propagation Method
Any of the methods for vegetative propagation described in Chapter 10 may be used to
raise plants for training as bonsai.
26.3.3 PLANT SHAPE AND PRIMARY PRUNING
The selected plant should be examined for desirable natural features such as natural
curvature and twists in the stem. The designer should determine the best viewing angle
(or front) of the finished product and work to enhance it. The primary branches are also
identified, starting with the lowest ones, which determine how low the display will be.
All unwanted branches below the lowest ones should be removed flush from the trunk.
Sometimes dead branches below the selected lowest one may be retained and incorporated
into the overall design. The maximum height of the bonsai must be determined
next. The plant should then be pruned to that height. The branches between the top and
bottom ones are judiciously pruned such that they alternate along the stem and are
shorter at the top than at the bottom. Some downward-pointing branches may be
removed. During the initial pruning stage, one or two of the lowest branches may be cut
back to leave 2 to 4 inches (5.1 to 10.2 centimeters) of limb that is stripped of its bark to
kill it. This action creates deadwood (aging), which enhances the design. The taproot
should be removed to encourage the growth of lateral or secondary roots. When starting
from seed, pruning is initiated when the seedling is young. The taproot and main stem
are pruned to induce lateral branching (Figure 26–5).
26.3.4 SECONDARY (MAINTENANCE) PRUNING
Secondary pruning is done very frequently to preserve the plant shape, remove unwanted
growth, and control growth (Figure 26–6). Leaves are clipped and sometimes completely
removed in deciduous species. Further, deciduous species are pinched on a regular basis
to remove buds, which has the effect of producing smaller leaves.
26.3.5 WIRING
The central stem may or may not be vertical. Vertical stems are desirable when a miniforest
design is being created, whereby several to many bonsai plants are grown in one
26.3 Training Bonsai 715