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magnificent, awe-inspiring bit of nature that was at once

fearsome and beautiful.

Sparsely populated, Molokai was home to the highest sea

cliffs in the world and every inch of them was covered with

the most brilliant green. Those cliffs rose from a sapphire sea

and into a cobalt sky so bright it hurt the eyes to look at it. By

the time they tied up the No Problem and got the car, Stephen

was back in true form and giving her the two-dollar tour as

they drove. That eastern part of the island where they were

headed was cut off on three sides by the Pacific and bordered

by the Kalaupapa National Historical Park. Deep in a canyon

at the foot of the mountains was the leper colony founded by

Father Damien. Leprosy was gone; the buildings where lepers

were nursed and museum that documented their suffering were

the island’s only tourist draw.

“Have you ever seen the place?” he asked. Josie shook her

head. “Well, then we’ll come back another day. You must take

a mule down miles of switchbacks to get there. They took

quarantine of those poor buggers quite seriously. I’d have to

send you alone though. I don’t care for those mules. Riding a

mule is like being in a boat on a choppy sea. Upsets the

tummy. Malia likes it. I’ll send her with you.”

That, Stephen said, was for another day when they had no

chore to do. The place he was taking her was reached by car

on a narrow road through some of the most beautiful terrain

she had ever seen. The Molokai uplands were cool and he took

great care on the roads that sometimes skirted the edge of the

cliffs. Finally, Stephen stopped at a turnout.

“Here we are,” he announced.

“I don’t see anything.”

“It’s not far. Deliveries are made from a different entrance.

There’s a wider road and all. We’d have to drive too far

around. Besides, this affords us a lovely walk.”

They both swung out.

“Might be best to take it slow,” he suggested.

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