vaitoskirja harkasalmi3-155c - Muotoilun tutkimus

154
abstract
bast Fibres by short-Fibre methods – towards
an environmentaLLy-conscious productization
oF FLax and hemp
The objective of this study is to explore the suitability of flax and hemp elementary
fibres in new textile and technical applications and creating prerequisites for product
design and productization. The study is based on a multidisciplinary approach to the
use of flax and hemp elementary fibres where, rather than traditional long-linen textile
processing technology, short-fibre methods are employed. Special attention was
paid to the quality requirements of rotor spinning. This means that the fibre characteristics
such as fineness, length, elongation at break and extension at break should
be modified to be similar to cotton. One important task is to remove noncellulosic
substances such as pectins and lignin without damaging the fibre cellulose.
In this study product- development-oriented design research was combined with
several product design perspectives including creativity, wide-ranging investigations
and design using tangible models. Methodically this study was divided into three
parts. In the first phase experimental processes aimed to explore the feel and tactility
of the materials. Knowledge of the differences and nuances of the bast fibres were
embodied in artefacts. In the second phase rotor spinning was tested in the scale of
a laboratory. Three different methods for removing the gluing substances from hemp
and flax were compared: enzyme-retting, spring harvesting (frost retting) and cottonizing
with the supernatant of the fungus Fusarium. The last of these methods is
introduced in this study as the Fusart method, a technique for retting, smoothening
and cottonizing bast fibres (especially linseed flax) by reducing the lignin content.
The Fusart method was further investigated in the third phase of the study. The
effects of treatments on the fibre characteristics were measured with standardized
methods for natural fibres. The main technical properties of the ultimate fibres were
fineness, fibre length and its distribution, elongation of break, tenacity and content
of lignin. Sensory evaluation was also used.
In this study a production concept was designed based on “total fibre” lines,
abstract
which included the following phases: linseed harvesting, refining processes (scutching
and carding), cottonizing with the fungus Fusarium and rotor spinning. Various
material experiments were designed and fabricated with different processing techniques,
such as knitting, weaving, moulding and wet laying. In the production model
the stability of the production chain minimizing process-stages and negative environmental
effects were increased compared to the traditional flax and hemp processing
technology.
This study showed that short-fibre methods give an impetus for the expansion of
bast fibres in new application fields. The Fusart method especially has significant potential
for producing high-quality bio-based material with tailored properties from
linseed flax in non-traditional textile and technical applications. The Fusart method
can help reduce negative impacts on the environment through for example the reduction
of energy use and increase in material efficiency.
Key words: linseed fibre, hemp fibre, ultimate fibre, short fibre methods, cottonization,
rotor spinning, production concept, environmentally-oriented product
design.
runkokuituja lyhytkuitumenetelmin
155