Cortina Inverno

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66 When the map is the treasure I was staying in Petra, Jordan, for 12 days for a photographic shoot of the rose red City. As an alpinist, though an inexperienced one, I had reached new vantage points, after two or three days of travel by a mule, some solitary and scarcely visited. It was the year 1990 and both the tourist guides and organization to visit Petra were rather imprecise; therefore I was able to wander where I wished to and see what the site had to offer. Quite happy with what I had already accomplished, I could have come back, yet I decided to take some time to visit Qa’ Disi, next to Wadi Rum, the desert where Lawrence of Arabia was said to have hidden. There, helped by a sand storm and some luck, I met Sheik Jleil Abu Kayed, the top authority on the area and chief of all the tribes. In that sea of dust and rocks I spent two days in the home where he lived with his three wives and 35 children. We were waiting for the storm to drop so I could journey with him to the mysterious destination of Qa’ Disi. We set off at dusk; after two hours off road, we stopped in an infinite maze of mountain passes that sank in the sand. I felt I was living a movie scene: the sheik was coming forward with his flapping mantle toward the base of a gigantic boulder, walking with the same ease as mountain people move on the rocks. I followed him, a little behind his imposing figure, until I realized I was walking on a bed of flint stones, arrow tips, cutting blades, sharpened chips: a true deposit. Most probably, precious tools were made on that site. I would have stopped, but the sheik kept striding up, so I was content to put a couple of handfuls in my pockets. Shortly after, we arrived at a fissure on the base of the mountains where a huge rock was leaning against the great face wall, leaving only a 50 centimeter wide crack. I had made it, oltreconFine I had reached the site that keeps the most ancient geographic map of the world, engraved in the rock. I had heard about it from Edoardo Borzatti, an archeologists from Florence university, who had not revealed the precise location in order to study it thoroughly before letting out the piece of news. A boulder of some tons with an almost level surface of 3 by 1.5 meter was lying there, embedded almost in the darkness with a series of paths joining some forty cupels of different sizes. On top of this rock, Aby Kayed stood, fiery of his secret, talking loudly to himself in an Arabian language that, unfortunately, we could not understand. The artefacts he pointed to, surely dated back to the Neolithic age, from 12,000 to 9,000 years B.C. when Humans started to become sedentary and farmers, and were likely meant to show the paths between settlements to avoid getting lost in that maze of mountains and sand canals. A map, jealously hidden from the eyes of other tribes or from nomadic robbers in transit, that had remained such for ten thousand years. On one side, a recent signs of use of a cereal grindstone had erased other precious signs. I was fascinated, breathless. I took pictures and looked, looked and took pictures, my heart was pounding. He stood, with a finger in a cupel, and the other pointed at a distant mountain through the small slit that let thin blades of sun in. Up there was probably the site corresponding to that cupel. A veritable map, a topographic map with paths connecting all the tribes, the family groups to other groups. I would have stopped there two days to take photos, but he drew me further across more sand canals and around other mountains to show me, other mysterious and fascinating rock engravings of armless figures on an overhanging wall; below, on the rock some small graffiti with camels and ibex; finally other cupels lying upside down to grind a little wild wheat and where to live sheltering beneath the overhanging walls. Back to Italy, I tried to get more information and by comparing the map with an aerial- photogrammetric relief of the area I discovered that it was possible to find a correspondence between the cupels and the locations of human settlements in the surrounding mountains and valleys. 23 years have gone by and still I often wonder whether those sites have become the destination of tourists following their guide or if they continue to be solitary as they have been for over 10,000 years.
Strane forme appena abbozzate sulla roccia fanno pensare ad astronauti con tanto di casco: sono graffiti incisi 8.000 anni prima di Cristo. Comprenderne il significato è oggi impossibile se non fantasticando su esseri extraterrestri; meglio pensare a misteriose figure tracciate per incutere timore agli avversari. Strange shapes, roughly sketched on the rock reminiscent of astronauts, complete with their helmets: these graffiti were engraved 8,000 years before Christ. their meaning is today unfathomable unless we imagine extraterrestrial beings; better to think that mysterious figures were traced on the rock to strike terror in enemies. 67
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