05.03.2013 Views

Sep 1978 - On-Line Newspaper Archives of Ocean City

Sep 1978 - On-Line Newspaper Archives of Ocean City

Sep 1978 - On-Line Newspaper Archives of Ocean City

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

PAGE 8 — SECTION TWO OCEAN CITY (N.J.) SENTINEL-LEDGER<br />

Agricultural agent report<br />

Some seeds may be saved for planting next year's garden crop<br />

By LARRY E. NEWBOLD<br />

County Agricultural Agent<br />

No matter how carefully you<br />

select limited quantities <strong>of</strong><br />

vegetable seeds for the coming<br />

growing season, there are<br />

always some leftovers.<br />

Although the cost <strong>of</strong> seed is<br />

minimal, one is usually hesitant<br />

about throwing out what's left<br />

at the end <strong>of</strong> the gardening<br />

year.<br />

For best results, fresh seeds<br />

should be purchased every<br />

year. However, most seeds, if<br />

fresh this spring and stored<br />

porperly, can be reused next<br />

year. Seed viability cnn also<br />

depend upon the particular<br />

season under which it was<br />

grown. Some, however, do have<br />

a fairly short storage life, even<br />

when kept under ideal conditions.<br />

Those seeds with a<br />

rather short storage life include<br />

sweet corn, onions, parsnip and<br />

hybrid tomatoes. Beans,<br />

carrots, celery, Swiss chard,<br />

beets, peppers, tomatoes, peas,<br />

and pumpkins will germinate 3<br />

to 4 years after purchase, if<br />

stored properly.<br />

The seed <strong>of</strong> other crops such<br />

as squash, cucumbers, turnips,<br />

radish, lettuce, melons,<br />

cauliflower, cabbage, broccoli,<br />

and Brussels sprouts will<br />

remain viable for nearly five<br />

years. Any leftover seed that<br />

has been stored should always<br />

be tested for viability just prior<br />

to planting next spring, and<br />

planted (if sufficient germination<br />

percentage exists) as<br />

soon as possible after removal<br />

from the storage container.<br />

Even if the storage conditions<br />

are optimum, always consider<br />

this seed as a supplement and<br />

not the complete supply for<br />

next year's planned garden.<br />

Although the subject is<br />

similar, this message about<br />

saving seeds deals with the<br />

drying and preserving <strong>of</strong> seeds<br />

from the ripened vegetables <strong>of</strong><br />

your garden. The results <strong>of</strong> this<br />

effort during the next growing<br />

season are usually very<br />

disappointing. Most vegetable<br />

AT ABOUT 15< A MILE<br />

IS THIS TRIP<br />

NECESSARY?<br />

Phone ahead and save.<br />

I New Jersey Bel<br />

varieties are hybrids that have<br />

been developed by. crosspollinating<br />

under very complicated<br />

processes that cannot<br />

be duplicated by an Individual<br />

pollinating vegetables in the<br />

backyard garden. Important<br />

qualities such as diseaseresistance,<br />

flavor, and-or yield<br />

are bred into hybrids. The seed<br />

<strong>of</strong> the second generation (the<br />

saved seed that is planted next<br />

year) will not possess> these<br />

essential qualities. The<br />

desirable characteristics in<br />

each hybrid variety last for<br />

only one generation. If they are<br />

important to you, you must buy<br />

and plant new seed each year.<br />

With certain types <strong>of</strong><br />

vegetables, sich as wiltresistance<br />

<strong>of</strong> tomatoes and<br />

virus-free peppers and melons,<br />

it is imperative that the home<br />

gardener select these hybrid<br />

varieties.<br />

If you have a pine, cherry,<br />

apple, or some other kind <strong>of</strong><br />

ornamental or fruit tree<br />

growing in your yard and find<br />

neat rows <strong>of</strong> holes (about onequarter<br />

inch in diameter) on<br />

the trunk or main branches,<br />

don't jump to conclusions that<br />

they're caused by borers or<br />

some other type <strong>of</strong> insect. Holes<br />

<strong>of</strong> this sort in straight rows are<br />

usually caused by a woodpecker-like<br />

bird called a sapsucker.<br />

The bird pecks holes in the<br />

trunk to feed on the sap that<br />

fills the holes. It has been<br />

reported that trees can be killed<br />

by this bird if it makes enough<br />

holes. Personally, I would not<br />

get overly concerned if these<br />

PRESENTING<br />

THE AIL NEW<br />

wmi<br />

STOP IN AND SEE All THE NEW CHEVROIETS and<br />

OLDSMOBIIES FREE REFRESHMENTS<br />

ctlmei Chevrolet-Oidsmobile<br />

ink I SUVSON AVI.<br />

ocfAManmttts<br />

OUC 4IM RUNM tV&JUJU<br />

USO CA!<br />

l<br />

OMOJAUTY<br />

symptoms are present.<br />

Countless examples <strong>of</strong> old<br />

specimen trees exhibiting these<br />

holes in the bark exist in<br />

healthy splendor.<br />

If a few <strong>of</strong> your trees have<br />

this problem, and you're still<br />

concerned about the pecking,<br />

try placing teetanglefoot in twoinch<br />

bands above and below the<br />

row <strong>of</strong> holes. This is a very<br />

sticky material and Just as<br />

much <strong>of</strong> a nuisance to the birds<br />

or other uninvited creatures<br />

that desire climbing in the tree<br />

as it will be to you trying to put<br />

it on.<br />

MAKING AND USING<br />

COMPOST<br />

What is compost? Compost is<br />

a dark, friable, partially<br />

decomposed form <strong>of</strong> organic<br />

matter similar in nature to the<br />

organic matter in the soil.<br />

Why make compost?<br />

Disposing <strong>of</strong> leaves, grass<br />

cuppings, and other garden<br />

refuse is <strong>of</strong>ten a problem for<br />

gardeners, particularly in<br />

urban areas: These byproducts<br />

<strong>of</strong> the garden and landscape<br />

can be turned into useful<br />

compst with no more effort<br />

than it takes to bag and haul<br />

them away.<br />

In many cases the compost<br />

will serve the same function as<br />

peat moss and thereby reduce<br />

gardening costs. Returning<br />

these organic materials to the<br />

land. perpetuates natural<br />

biological cycles and is an<br />

ecologically sensible means <strong>of</strong><br />

using organic wastes.<br />

The value <strong>of</strong> compost. Good<br />

compost consists <strong>of</strong> a small<br />

amount <strong>of</strong> soil along with<br />

decomposed or partially<br />

decomposed plant and animal<br />

residues. As a soil amendment,<br />

compost . improves both<br />

physical condition and fertility,<br />

uis especailly useful for Improving<br />

soils that are low in<br />

organic matter.<br />

The organic matter in the<br />

compost makes heavy clay<br />

soils easier to work by binding<br />

the soil particles together. Such<br />

aggregation <strong>of</strong> the soil particles<br />

helps improve aeration, root<br />

INTERIOR PAINTING<br />

Fall and Winter<br />

SPECIAL RfcTES<br />

3 Rooms for the Pflce <strong>of</strong> a<br />

Fully Insured • Fred Estimates<br />

20 Years Experience<br />

398-0265<br />

penetration, and water infiltration,<br />

and reduces crusting<br />

<strong>of</strong> the soil surface. Additionally<br />

organic matter also helps<br />

sandy soil retain water and<br />

nutrients.<br />

Although compost contains<br />

nutrients, its greatest benefit is<br />

in improving soil characteristics.<br />

Therefore, it should<br />

be considered valuable soil<br />

amendment, and not a fertilizer,<br />

since, in most cases,<br />

additional fertilization will be<br />

necessary to achieve maximum<br />

growth and production.<br />

Compost is also valuable<br />

mulching material to use<br />

around garden and landscape<br />

plants. It may be used as a<br />

"topdressing" for lawns and,<br />

when it contains a small<br />

amount <strong>of</strong> soil, as a growing<br />

medium for house plants or for<br />

starting seedlings.<br />

How compost forms. Composting<br />

speeds natural<br />

" decomposition under controlled<br />

conditions. Raw organic<br />

material is converted into<br />

compost by the action <strong>of</strong><br />

microorganisms (fungi and<br />

bacteria). During intiail stages<br />

<strong>of</strong> composting, microorganisms<br />

increase rapidly. As the<br />

materials decompose, some<br />

kinds <strong>of</strong> microorganisms<br />

predominate. But as the<br />

complete a certain function<br />

these microorganisms decline<br />

while others build up and<br />

continue the decomposition.<br />

As microorganisms<br />

decompose the organic<br />

materials, temperatures within<br />

the pile approach MO to 160<br />

degrees at the center. This kills<br />

some <strong>of</strong> the weed seeds and<br />

diseaseorganlsms in these high<br />

temperature areas. However,<br />

in cooler sections <strong>of</strong> the heap<br />

such sterilization does not<br />

occur.<br />

Organisms that are largely<br />

responsible for the breakdown<br />

<strong>of</strong> the organic materials<br />

require large quantities <strong>of</strong><br />

nitrogen. Therefore, adding<br />

nitrogen fertilizer or materials<br />

supplying large amounts <strong>of</strong><br />

nitrogen is necessary for rapid<br />

and thorough decomposition.<br />

During the Dreakdown period<br />

this nitrogen is tied up, and not<br />

available for plant use. It is<br />

released, however, when the<br />

; 4wx>T n p<strong>of</strong>

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!