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Volume 3 - Electric Scotland

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NORTH UTST.<br />

105<br />

smiles : when they bluster and roar you require no warn-<br />

ing. All was gay, and bright, and smooth, and green ;<br />

yet the sea, which seemed as if it had gone to rest for<br />

ever, was gently heaving in a long-measured swell that<br />

no eye could discover. The cave was long and low, and<br />

the roof shelved down till it met the water. On a sud-<br />

den we were lifted up and carried on till our heads<br />

struck the roof; and the space was instantly filled by the<br />

sea. It was the work of an instant to push back ; and<br />

that instant, had we failed, would have consigned us to<br />

the shells and corals below, to sleep for ever " under the<br />

glassy, cool, translucent wave," beyond even the reach<br />

of conjecture. " Eh sirs," said Neill, as the long surge<br />

swept us out again, " wha would ha' thought it." It is<br />

a good quiet sort of sea, says Solon, if the winds would<br />

let it alone. His worship never visited caves probably.<br />

Butler is nearer the mark, when he says, that, in one<br />

way or other, ships and boats have made ample amends<br />

for all those they saved at the Deluge.<br />

Loch Maddy, in North Uist, forms an excellent har-<br />

bour. There is one advantage in a shower in this coun-<br />

try, that you are not kept waiting in fretful expectation,<br />

wondering how long it will be before you are wet<br />

through. The business is completed in five minutes, and<br />

you are at peace for the day. After that, whatever falls<br />

is so much rain wasted ; it affects you no more than it<br />

does the sea. This is the true secret of that contempt of<br />

rain for which I had so often admired the Highlanders:<br />

a wet jacket, like some pains and all pleasures, is more<br />

in the expectation than in the reality. It is also true,<br />

soberly and philosophically. To be half wet is to be<br />

chilled; but a thoroughly drenched coat checks the<br />

partial and cold evaporation. Hence the warmth of the<br />

soaked plaid. The Highland practice is correct. It

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