Volume 3 - Electric Scotland

456 DUNTULM.
the politeness supposed to have been generated in modern
days by our own duellino-, to have been the result of
fear. Every man wore a dirk, says he, and no man dared to
be rude to his neighbour, lest he should receive the skene
dhu in his wame. And this historian too, is a warm
friend to all the virtues of the Highlanders, real and
imaginary: "Call you this backing your friends," Sir
John'? But we must return to the road whence we have
strayed : for in spite of east and west and bitties, it was
found at last.
It is little interesting till it approaches Duntulm,
where, lying high above the cliffs, it impends over a deep
sea, skirted on the right, by a tall bulwark of basaltic co-
lumns. The Bay of Duntulm is extended far below ; its
half-ruined castle occupying a projecting and high rocky
tongue of land ; and the island beyond it, presenting its
bold vertical face of cliffs. The Shiant Isles, darkened
by a heavy cloud which had just passed the setting sun,
came full in view as I emerged from the lofty columnar
precipices; and the last of the yellow rays that strug-
gled through its thin edge, were shot slanting along a sea
which glittered calm and wide to the utmost verge of the
wild mountains of Harris. As I descended on the bay,
grey evening enveloped the landscape, and I began to
look anxiously for my night's refuge. No house was,
however, visible, no sound was heard, no smoke was
seen. I listened for the sheep-bell ; but in vain : a soli-
tary boat, far out in the darkening bay, gave me little
comfort, I proposed to sleep in the ruins of Duntulm.
At length I came unexpectedly upon a shepherd, re-
clining under a rock, with his dog by his side, keenly
watching his master's eye that was directed toward the
hill. He was a tall, spare, anxious figure, with the
coarse grey checked plaid and trousers, a long branch of
a ti-ee, for a staff, in his hand, and a Highland bonnet on