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Volume 3 - Electric Scotland

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270 LOCH BERNE RA.<br />

longer difficult to navig-ate, our own difficulties were not<br />

over, as we had still to find our vessel. The men soon dis-<br />

covered, at a distance, a mast which they supposed to be<br />

the true one ; and although I knew that to be impossible, I<br />

thought it good policy to yield, that I might fully esta-<br />

blish a superiority not yet quite secured, but of which I<br />

had already experienced the value. It proved a kelp<br />

sloop at anchor in the Kyles Flota, about six miles from<br />

our own anchorage. They now confessed that they<br />

knew not where it lay or how to find it, and the helm,<br />

of course, was again submitted to the landsman. Re-<br />

solved to complete the triumph, that the important ques-<br />

tion of pilotage might for ever be set at rest, I stood<br />

boldly over to what they considered a continuous range<br />

of main land, knowing that there was a very narrow en-<br />

trance between the two Berneras, and that this range<br />

consisted of these islands. I must own, however, that I<br />

began to hesitate when I saw a long wall of high rocky<br />

cliffs, extending for miles on each hand, not many hun-<br />

dred yards off, with a heavy sea breaking against it.<br />

But it was not a time to look alarmed, as the men cried<br />

out that we were on a lee shore, and should be lost ; and<br />

having watched the land diligently, so as to be certain<br />

that the division of the islands could not be far off, I<br />

stood in with a full sail right against the cliff, when, at<br />

the very moment they began to vociferate that it was<br />

necessary to " lower away" and take to the oars to pull<br />

offshore, the sides of two high rocks receded, and we<br />

ran directly into a narrow opening resembling the en-<br />

trance of a street, the most extraordinary of all the ex-<br />

traordinary places that I ever saw on these strange<br />

coasts. Hurra ! for the Sassanach, was the cry, when we<br />

found ourselves in smooth water, and saw our own mast<br />

rocking beneath a lofty cliff, with the long pennant<br />

streaminar to th^ breeze.

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