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Volume 3 - Electric Scotland

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SIORNOWAY. 279<br />

very graceful foriu. Tlie general rock of this shore,<br />

whicli is gneiss, being frequently bent in the strata, it is<br />

easy to see that this is one from which the surrounding<br />

parts have fallen away. Finding nothing* else to interest<br />

us, we stretched across to the Aird, leaving behind the<br />

wide but dangerous bay Loch Tua, and anchored in<br />

Loch Stornoway.<br />

Stornoway is a large town, and, in this remote coun-<br />

try, it forms an agreeable surprise. It is one of the three<br />

burghs (Campbelltown and Inverlochy being the others)<br />

erected by James VI, as elsewhere mentioned, with the<br />

design of introducing civilization into the Highlands. Of<br />

its scandal and politics, I heard, and might have re-<br />

corded a great deal ; but it is only to change the names,<br />

and these are nearly the same every where ;<br />

at Penzance<br />

and Stornoway, in your own gude town, and in Gros-<br />

venor square. I had the happiness of being at a coterie,<br />

and of playing at whist; nor did 1 find but that coteries<br />

of tea and whist at Stornoway, are species of a genus that<br />

exists every where. A cockney is apt to wonder how<br />

people live, and how they look, and what they do, and<br />

what they talk of, in such places ; and if it be a lady, she<br />

will wonder how they are dressed. Scandal and politics,<br />

cards and tea, idleness and grumbling, silk and muslins,<br />

newspapers, affectation, novels, births, marriages, court-<br />

ships, and bankruptcies, the world is pretty much the<br />

same, mutatis mutandis, in London and in Stornoway.<br />

As to fashions, (I must say a word for the ladies, or Lady<br />

Scott would not read my letters,) it is said that they are<br />

propagated in England by mail coaches ; but they find<br />

their way to the Highlands full fast, without that aid.<br />

Here the bonnets were of the Oldenburgh capacity, and<br />

the colour of the pelisse was that of Blucher's mustachios.<br />

Bond street could not have displayed more orthodoxy.<br />

The morning half-boots were of the Wellington grey.

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