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Focus On Lighting Photos Focus on the Fundamentals.pdf

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62<br />

what are “degrees KeLvin”?<br />

Kelvin is a temperature scale,<br />

like Fahrenheit, Centigrade, or<br />

Celsius, but Kelvin also measures<br />

color. If we heat anything<br />

enough, it will glow. The more<br />

we heat it, <strong>the</strong> bluer its color.<br />

Of course, if we heat anything<br />

too much, it’s likely to burn.<br />

So we heat things in a vacuum.<br />

Without air, <strong>the</strong> thing we heat<br />

can’t burn. That’s why our old<br />

tungsten lightbulbs are made<br />

with as little air inside as possible.<br />

That allows us to heat <strong>the</strong><br />

tungsten up to about 2800°K<br />

without immediate burnout.<br />

The Kelvin scale is counterintuitive<br />

to most people. The colors<br />

that artists call “cool”—blues<br />

and greens—have a higher<br />

(hotter) Kelvin temperature,<br />

whereas <strong>the</strong> colors we call<br />

“warm”—red, yellow, orange—<br />

have a lower (cooler) Kelvin<br />

temperature.<br />

For a simple explanati<strong>on</strong>,<br />

ignore fluorescent lights. They<br />

are also measured in degrees<br />

Kelvin, but <strong>the</strong>re is more going<br />

<strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong>re than Dr. Kelvin’s old<br />

heat principle.<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>Focus</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>On</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Lighting</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Photos</str<strong>on</strong>g><br />

It’s always<br />

better to<br />

make color<br />

adjustments<br />

in <strong>the</strong> camera<br />

ra<strong>the</strong>r than later<br />

with software!<br />

Pretty much every digital camera<br />

today comes with settings<br />

for Sunny, Shade, Incandescent<br />

(Tungsten) modes, and some<br />

even accommodate various<br />

fluorescent light sources. (These<br />

terms may vary from brand to<br />

brand.) They also usually have<br />

an Auto Balance (Auto White<br />

Balance) setting where <strong>the</strong><br />

camera automatically takes <strong>the</strong><br />

amount of light and its color<br />

informati<strong>on</strong> and provides a<br />

natural white balance (not always<br />

reliably). Many cameras also<br />

allow us to create Custom White<br />

Balance (handy if we are using<br />

old softboxes or diffusi<strong>on</strong> materials<br />

that have yellowed with age).<br />

Some cameras will also allow<br />

us to actually enter <strong>the</strong> Kelvin<br />

number we want.<br />

When we want <strong>the</strong> image to be<br />

as close to <strong>the</strong> way we perceive<br />

<strong>the</strong> scene, we’ll want to be sure<br />

to set <strong>the</strong> camera to match our<br />

light source. If we d<strong>on</strong>’t, we’ll<br />

get a photo that doesn’t look like<br />

what we anticipate. We can mix<br />

and match if we want to have fun<br />

or create a mood, but if we’re<br />

looking for “reality,” <strong>the</strong>n we<br />

have to learn to recognize our<br />

light sources.<br />

We generally c<strong>on</strong>sider midday<br />

light <strong>on</strong> a clear day to be<br />

“normal” lighting. Most flashes<br />

are set to approximate this color<br />

of light. However, daylight actually<br />

changes based <strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> time of day,<br />

whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> subject is in shade<br />

and whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>re is cloud cover.<br />

It can be very blue, red, or orange.<br />

So now we know sunlight<br />

changes color during <strong>the</strong> day.<br />

When <strong>the</strong> sun strikes <strong>the</strong> subject<br />

directly, we see warmer light.<br />

When <strong>the</strong> day is bright but <strong>the</strong><br />

sun doesn’t strike directly, <strong>the</strong><br />

color is cooler. Why? Think of<br />

a white building in an open

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