Shamans, Supernaturals & Animal Spirits: Mythic Figures From the Ancient Andes

Most Andean cultures have a predilection for one particular
weaving or patterning technique over another (for
example, embroidery in Paracas, interlocking tapestry in Wari and
slit tapestry in Huarmey). The Chimú specialized in an extremely
ornamental style of ceremonial and burial dress that was heavily
textured and layered with decorative tassels, pile and fringes,
typically dyed a brilliant cochineal red. Entire ensembles of male
ceremonial costume are known, usually comprising matching
decorated loincloths, turbans, tunics and/or mantles.
231
Pair of Three-Dimensional Tassels from a Garment
Human Personages
Chimú culture
AD 1100-1476
Cotton, camelid wool, vegetal fiber?; wrapping,
looping, knotting, embroidery
7" x 3" (each)
Three-dimensional figural tassels and fabric medallions with
motifs were applied to foundations that were patterned or woven
in different special techniques, including doublecloth, brocade,
gauze and slit tapestry. Many of the ground cloths emphasize
a quality of openwork and transparency that stand in striking
contrast to their thick superstructures, composed of multiple tiers
of intricate embellishment.
This visual complexity, and the resultant bulk of the person
wearing this type of dress, surely projected immense prestige and
power. In this cotton-producing region, moreover, the extensive
use of cochineal, a vibrant colorant that bonds most successfully
with animal fibers, similarly must have drawn attention to the
copious amounts of camelid wool incorporated into such textiles.
As illustrated in this catalogue, the volumetric tassels range in style
from flat elements, embroidered or worked in supplementary
techniques to depict faces or entire figures, to three-dimensional,
costumed figurines like these. The latter, more intricately
constructed forms, utilize a combination of methods to add
details and features to the shaped, tubular structures. Although
fairly schematic in concept, many of these creatively conceived
figures project unique personalities, while their own tufts, fringes
and tassels surely imitate the distinctive Chimú style of dress.
These works of miniature fiber sculpture can be related to
other coastal art traditions, which also produced textile effigies
representing human beings and animals, including Nasca and
Chancay.