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145<br />
Fragment from <strong>the</strong> Shoulder of a Tunic<br />
A Male and Female Pair of Condor Staff-Bearers<br />
Wari culture<br />
AD 600-900<br />
Camelid wool; interlocking tapestry weave<br />
19" x 5½"<br />
The entire body of Wari tunic iconography can be charted<br />
on a design spectrum, moving inexorably towards an<br />
endpoint of total abstraction. Indeed, this trajectory might<br />
be considered <strong>the</strong> apogee of an Andean textile aes<strong>the</strong>tic that<br />
began a millennium earlier with <strong>the</strong> modular constructivism of<br />
Chavín imagery.<br />
Since <strong>the</strong> tapestry tunics were produced over a period of at<br />
least 500 years, time was clearly a contributing factor in this<br />
progression. Several hypo<strong>the</strong>ses have also been advanced to<br />
explain this fascinating development. Alan Sawyer proposed,<br />
for example, that <strong>the</strong> patterning was increasingly compressed<br />
toward <strong>the</strong> outer edges of <strong>the</strong> tunic in order to create <strong>the</strong><br />
impression of a rounded volumetric or cylindrical shape that<br />
overrides <strong>the</strong> flat, square format of <strong>the</strong> garment.1 William<br />
Conklin has suggested, on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand, that <strong>the</strong> visual<br />
distortion that occurs as <strong>the</strong> image is repeated across <strong>the</strong> vertical<br />
bands reflects an Andean concept of one (or multiple) cosmic<br />
horizons toward which <strong>the</strong> flying mythical figure recedes (or<br />
from which it emerges), diminishing in scale and angle as it<br />
vanishes (or appears) in <strong>the</strong> distance. 2<br />
The result of <strong>the</strong> rectilinear compression and fracturing of<br />
<strong>the</strong> figure is evident in this interpretation of <strong>the</strong> staff-bearer<br />
attendant. Although partially outlined with a crisp white<br />
thread, <strong>the</strong> delineation barely compensates for <strong>the</strong> extreme<br />
compartmentalization of <strong>the</strong> avian form into myriad elliptical,<br />
square, oblong, circular, chevron, and irregularly shaped color<br />
blocks. The head of <strong>the</strong> bird is especially elusive, to <strong>the</strong> point<br />
of merging with <strong>the</strong> indigo background (top). That gives<br />
prominence to both <strong>the</strong> distinctive hooked beak of <strong>the</strong> bird<br />
of prey and <strong>the</strong> bisected eye, which is wrapped in a stylized<br />
creature that magnifies or shrinks in size depending on <strong>the</strong><br />
width allocated to <strong>the</strong> figure's head.<br />
Despite its cryptic quality, this Wari variant never<strong>the</strong>less<br />
incorporates <strong>the</strong> same curious motif that adorns <strong>the</strong> birdheaded<br />
attendant represented on <strong>the</strong> Sun Portal. The element,<br />
which consists of a small face with an exaggerated, upturned<br />
mouth, is thought to depict <strong>the</strong> now-extinct Lake Titicaca<br />
Oresteia’s fish. 3 Here this schematic face is set at <strong>the</strong> tip of <strong>the</strong><br />
staff, behind <strong>the</strong> foot and below <strong>the</strong> wing. Perhaps inspired by<br />
a fish eagle, <strong>the</strong> motif surely links this supernatural personage<br />
with that vast lake, which was regarded as a place of mythic and<br />
primordial origin.<br />
The iconography of this fragment is identical to that of a<br />
tunic excavated by Max Uhle at Pachacamac, <strong>the</strong> powerful<br />
ceremonial and oracle center on <strong>the</strong> central coast. 4 Without<br />
knowing whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>se related textiles were actually woven<br />
<strong>the</strong>re or brought from <strong>the</strong> highlands, it is impossible to say<br />
whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> mythic significance of this fish motif was still<br />
pertinent among coastal peoples—or if <strong>the</strong> loss of context<br />
in fact stripped it and o<strong>the</strong>rs of <strong>the</strong>ir specific meanings, thus<br />
promoting <strong>the</strong> general stylization and reduction of form.<br />
1 Alan Sawyer, "Tiahuanaco Tapestry Design," Textile Museum Journal 1, no. 2 (1963):<br />
27-38.<br />
2 William Conklin, "The <strong>Mythic</strong> Geometry of <strong>the</strong> <strong>Ancient</strong> Sou<strong>the</strong>rn Sierra," in The<br />
Junius B. Bird Conference 1984, ed. Anne Pollard Rowe (1986): 123-137.<br />
3 John Wayne Janusek, <strong>Ancient</strong> Tiwanaku (2008): fig. 5.5.<br />
4 Max Uhle, Pachacamac (1903): plate 4, fig. 2.<br />
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