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146<br />
Fragment from <strong>the</strong> Shoulder of a Tunic<br />
A Male and Female Pair of Condor Staff-Bearers<br />
Wari culture<br />
AD 600-900<br />
Camelid wool; interlocking tapestry weave<br />
19" x 5½"<br />
The tendency toward ever-increasing abstraction in Wari<br />
textile art was a collective phenomenon, surely driven<br />
as much by individual artistry as by <strong>the</strong> imposition of an<br />
official aes<strong>the</strong>tic. Certainly, local styles and <strong>the</strong>mes might<br />
have influenced <strong>the</strong> development of Wari design. That aspect<br />
might be better understood if it were possible to determine<br />
<strong>the</strong> geographic location of various weaving workshops, <strong>the</strong>reby<br />
associating stylistic nuances and innovations with distinct<br />
regions (north/south or coast/highlands).<br />
In this case, <strong>the</strong> compressed rectilinearity and complexity<br />
of <strong>the</strong> image may not solely reflect <strong>the</strong> band’s proximity to<br />
<strong>the</strong> outer sides of <strong>the</strong> tunic, but also suggests an intensified<br />
approach to figural deconstruction and distortion. The play of<br />
elongated elements on both <strong>the</strong> vertical and horizontal axes is<br />
especially pronounced.<br />
Without recourse to <strong>the</strong> overall composition and to <strong>the</strong><br />
matching parallel bands of design, <strong>the</strong> alternating diagrammatic<br />
figures are best decoded through comparison with related<br />
iconography. Two avian staff-bearers alternate in <strong>the</strong> sequence,<br />
switching back and forth in direction, and expanding or<br />
contracting according to typical Wari canons. The pattern<br />
mosaic obscures a subtle differentiation of attribute and<br />
geometry in each image. 1<br />
The most significant distinction is that one of <strong>the</strong> pair<br />
(bottom) displays a large knob on its beak, which apparently<br />
alludes to <strong>the</strong> comb or caruncle of <strong>the</strong> male condor, while<br />
<strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r (center) does not, just like <strong>the</strong> female of <strong>the</strong> species.<br />
The distinctive shape of this beak indicates that <strong>the</strong> feature is<br />
deliberate, and that its omission on <strong>the</strong> second figure is not due<br />
to a design constriction. The duality suggests a male and female<br />
couple, which is a novel variant on <strong>the</strong> staffbearer <strong>the</strong>me. (Such<br />
gendered pairs are common among representations of songbirds<br />
and hummingbirds in Early Nasca embroidery. 2 )<br />
This dualistic opposition is carried through in terms of form<br />
and motif. The wing tips, talons, and headdress of <strong>the</strong> male<br />
bird are defined with curving lines. In <strong>the</strong> female, those traits<br />
are demarcated with straight lines; in fact, her feet and hands<br />
are humanlike. The small animal heads appended to <strong>the</strong> edges<br />
of <strong>the</strong> wings and crowns are also varied: one is catlike, <strong>the</strong><br />
o<strong>the</strong>r has an exaggerated black-and-white beak, like that of<br />
<strong>the</strong> macaw.<br />
1 The third partial figure seen at <strong>the</strong> top of <strong>the</strong> band reflects <strong>the</strong> change in direction<br />
that occurred at <strong>the</strong> shoulder line of <strong>the</strong> tunic.<br />
2 Mary Frame, “Motion Pictures: Symmetry as Animator, Classifier, and Syntax in <strong>the</strong><br />
Nasca Embroideries of Peru,” in Symmetry Comes of Age: The Role of Pattern in Culture,<br />
ed. Dorothy Washburn and Donald Crowe (2004): 133-176.<br />
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