DEKAT DIGITAL 2019 - 2020

Visitors, who are treated as guests, come and stay for the dim sum… steamed and fried
parcelled perfection; the cold seaweed, garlic and chilli dish Emma loves so much; her
famous duck evenings; the morsels of seafood on sesame toast; braised snowy tofu and
silky mushrooms; crispy chicken on the bone; pink plump prawns; fluffy egg-fried rice;
thick, juicy noodles; ginger fish; beautifully bright vegetables; spoonfuls of soup, spicy and
sweet; fortune cookie snaps…
The Red Chamber is famous for its food, but perhaps even more so for the gentle woman
who has owned and run one of Joburg’s greatest culinary gems for 30 years. Emma Chen
is an empress of food, good and great food; the love of food that goes into preparing and
savouring it. For years, patrons have come for her company too – when invited, she joins diners at their tables, and
shares her wisdom and intelligence, talent and humour, curiosity and taste.
Emma grew up in Taiwan, in a military camp, where food was the only currency not in short supply. Food represented
love and friendship in a community that lacked economic wealth.
“Food is love,” says Emma.
“My mom was the local schoolteacher, and in the camp where I grew up everybody knew I was Teacher Jiang’s
daughter. There was little material wealth, but there was a strong sense of cohesion in the tight community. I could walk
in and out of any house, no doors were locked. At mealtimes I would often be invited to join family tables.”
Emma runs her two restaurants with a keen awareness of others, especially her female staff, of whom she employs
close to 40 in total. She is aware of their circumstances, understanding that their domestic lives are often not ideal,
and she tries to guide them and make them aware that life’s obstacles can be overcome or bettered during their own
lifetime. She knows there are resentments and challenges, and she tries to tell others to be aware of this – a lesson
she learnt through food.
“On Sundays, I would go to the market with my mother to help her carry the baskets. Bargaining was the normal
practice, but I always felt shy when I saw Mom doing it. One day, I saw a neighbour ‘mama’ (that’s how we referred
to all adult women) crouching on the floor, bargaining with the vegetable vendor.
“After she had paid, the neighbour grabbed a handful of mushrooms, threw them into her own basket, stood up and
quickly walked away. I stared at the vendor in shock.
“When he turned to deal with Mom, he smiled and greeted her in a friendly manner, but I noticed his clenched jaw
and his unsmiling eyes. My mom was oblivious to what had just happened and started to bargain as usual.
“I learnt that morning that life can be complicated.
“Throughout the years, I came to realise that our background plays a significant role in shaping who we are, and I
remember that when dealing with my staff and my customers.”
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