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122 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Budapest<br />

Hungary<br />

DIALLING CODE +36<br />

CURRENCY Forint (HUF)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Dortmund,<br />

Geneva, London (LGW,<br />

LTN), Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

SINCE<br />

2004<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

HUF3,500–HUF4,800.<br />

Trains leave for<br />

Western station.<br />

Tickets: HUF300.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Haxen<br />

Király (100 Király Utca,<br />

VI, tel: 01 351 6793)<br />

Serving traditional,<br />

German-accented<br />

Hungarian food. Check<br />

out the crispy roasted<br />

pork knuckles – for the<br />

culinary brave.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Bock<br />

Bisztró (43–49<br />

Erzsébet Körút, tel: 01<br />

321 0340) Owned by<br />

a leading winemaker,<br />

Bock serves Hungarian<br />

cuisine, with a wine list<br />

as notable as the food.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Terv<br />

Eszpresszó (19 Nádor<br />

Utca, V, tel: 01 269 3132)<br />

Terv is full of Socialist-<br />

era kitsch, as well as<br />

plumes of smoke. It’s a<br />

nice place for a relaxing<br />

drink or two.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Fonó<br />

Budai Zeneház (3<br />

Sztregova Utca, XI, tel: 1<br />

206 5300) Though it’s<br />

a bit out of the centre,<br />

Fonó is the best place<br />

to catch live Hungarian<br />

folk bands. Better yet,<br />

there are regular dance<br />

nights Hungarian-style.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Pick up some<br />

of Hungary’s fi nest<br />

pálinka (fruit brandy) at<br />

Mesterpálinkák. Flavours<br />

include raspberry,<br />

blackcurrant, quince and<br />

plum (18 Zrínyi Utca,<br />

mesterpalinkak.hu).<br />

SEE There is a lot going<br />

on at the Museum of<br />

Fine Arts this autumn.<br />

Three temporary<br />

exhibitions focus on the<br />

work of Gustav Klimt;<br />

Fernando Botero; and<br />

the work of Hungarian<br />

photographer Lucien<br />

Hervé (Hosök tere, XIV).<br />

Carolyn Banfalvi<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Danube, an<br />

important part of<br />

the city’s landscape,<br />

is Europe’s secondlongest<br />

river and fl ows<br />

through 10 countries<br />

(including four<br />

Central and Eastern<br />

European capitals).<br />

Cagliari<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Geneva, London<br />

(STN), Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

SINCE<br />

2005<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

ARST buses go<br />

to the city centre.<br />

Tickets: €2.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Café<br />

Restaurant Van Gogh<br />

(Baccu Mandara, Km19,<br />

Cagliari-Villasimius<br />

Road, tel: 070 786 082)<br />

A peaceful venue tucked<br />

away in the countryside,<br />

with an adjoining terrace<br />

and garden. The excellent<br />

fi sh dishes are fresh and<br />

always prepared with a<br />

personal touch.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La Scala<br />

(50 Via Lunigiana, tel:<br />

070 286 245) The<br />

stylish restaurant of the<br />

four-star Sardegna Hotel<br />

is open to the public and<br />

combines haute cuisine<br />

with traditional Sardinian<br />

cooking. To get a good<br />

taste of the real Sardinia<br />

try the culurgionis alla<br />

gennargentu (stuffed<br />

pasta) followed by the<br />

cinghiale in umido al<br />

cannonau (wild boar<br />

cooked in local red wine).<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Café Etnico<br />

(39–41 Via Rockefeller,<br />

tel: 070 348 1511) A<br />

laidback café decorated<br />

in a bohemian style.<br />

Open from 7am, this is<br />

the perfect spot for a<br />

good cup of coffee and<br />

a slice of cake.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Iguana’s Pub (20 Via<br />

Costituzione, tel: 070<br />

680 315) This lively bar<br />

frequently hosts gigs<br />

by local bands as well<br />

as DJ events. Come on<br />

Wednesday for karaoke<br />

and on a Thursday for<br />

hot Cuban rhythms.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP With this<br />

month’s start of the<br />

chestnut season you<br />

can buy them freshly<br />

roasted from one of the<br />

street stands in the Is<br />

Mirrionis quarter. Tasty!<br />

SEE From 19–21<br />

November Cagliari<br />

presents the European<br />

Jazz Expo at the Fiera<br />

di Cagliari, featuring<br />

international artists.<br />

Not to be missed, if<br />

you’re into sax, double<br />

bass and all things jazz<br />

(jazzinsardegna.it).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Spanish rulers<br />

beheaded the Sardinian<br />

aristocrat Marchese di<br />

Cea in the 17th century<br />

and displayed his head<br />

for 17 years near the<br />

small statue of the<br />

elephant tower.<br />

Dario Henke<br />

Casablanca<br />

Morocco<br />

DIALLING CODE +212<br />

CURRENCY MAD<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Lyon, Madrid, Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

SINCE<br />

2007<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs MAD250.<br />

Trains depart<br />

every hour to<br />

Casa Voyageur. Tickets:<br />

MAD35–MAD50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Aladdin<br />

Brochettes (26 Rue<br />

Abbas Mahmoud El<br />

Akkad, tel: 0522 471<br />

286) Aladdin has<br />

branches around<br />

Casablanca offering<br />

cheap yet tasty sandwich<br />

fare. Beef brochettes are<br />

the speciality here.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Restaurant du Port de<br />

Peche (Port de Peche,<br />

tel: 0522 318 561) Go<br />

early or be prepared<br />

to wait. The freshly<br />

caught fi sh and seafood<br />

and delightfully rustic<br />

ambience keep this<br />

place busy. The paella<br />

deserves a mention,<br />

although you won’t be<br />

disappointed if you stick<br />

to Moroccan choices.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY La Calèche<br />

(25 Rue de la Mer Rouge,<br />

Aïn Diab, tel: 0522 798<br />

223) Enjoy nightly live<br />

rock, soul or Gnaoua at<br />

this popular pre-club<br />

hangout. Cosy yet lively,<br />

try the colourful, bar<br />

area or outdoor terrace.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Urban Villa (Royal Club<br />

Equestre d’Anfa, Ain<br />

Diab) Start early at the<br />

pool tables or rooftop<br />

lounge, then graduate<br />

to the bar and fi nally the<br />

dancefl oor as the night<br />

heats up. Urban décor<br />

and smiley people keep<br />

this a lively yet downto-earth<br />

option in an<br />

at-times showy scene.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP If you forgot<br />

to bring a book for<br />

your journey, there’s<br />

a fairly good selection<br />

of English books, both<br />

fi ction and non-fi ction,<br />

at Calliope Language<br />

Bookstore (Rue Nassih<br />

Eddine, Résidence Anfa<br />

II, tel: 0522 257 400).<br />

GO Admire the French<br />

art deco architecture<br />

while strolling the city<br />

centre. Many buildings<br />

are in need of repair, but<br />

you can still appreciate<br />

their beauty.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The public holiday<br />

on 6 November<br />

commemorates the<br />

Green March of 1975,<br />

the day on which<br />

350,000 unarmed<br />

Moroccan civilians<br />

marched to the Western<br />

Sahara, liberating<br />

it from Spain.<br />

Cara Warkentin

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